that was extremely helpful and very obfuscating. thanks and curses!
It reminds me of the astrological readings that you find in most newspapers, which go something like:
You live in the present moment. Do not worry if the past is behind you; the future is ahead of you.
On 4/23/06, Udhay Shankar N <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Subject: You've got to love the internet
>From: John Hatpin < [EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Newsgroups: alt.fan.cecil-adams
>
>You've got to love the internet.
>
>Today, while fixing a broken floorboard, I discovered rotten wood in a
>joist. Since all I know about wood rot is that there are basically
>two kinds: "dry rot" and "wet rot", it was time to Google. After
>reading a lot of websites on the subject, here is a summary of my
>findings.
>
>- Dry rot is caused by the fungus Serpula Lacrymans, whereas wet rot
>is caused by the fungus Serpula Lacrymans. The two types of fungus
>spread in very different ways. Wet rot is not a fungal infestation.
>
>- "Wet rot" is a misnomer, because it's actually not wet at all. You
>can tell if it's wet rot because it's wet, unlike dry rot which is wet
>and feels dry to the touch.
>
>- "Dry rot" is also a misnomer, because the wood is not dry, so any
>moisture in the wood means it isn't not dry wet rot.
>
>- If your wood has cracks across the grain, it's probably wet rot; dry
>rot, on the other hand, has cracks that run *across* the grain.
>
>- If you have dry rot, you need to remove all timber within 1m. You
>should also remove all timber within 4m. The minimum distance is 5m,
>although 2m is considered the least you can get away with.
>
>- Do *not* attempt to treat dry rot yourself. Call in the qualified
>experts, who routinely misdiagnose and do more work than is necessary;
>ensure that they don't skimp on the job. You can do the job yourself
>with commercially available treatments.
>
>- There is no treatment other than cutting out all the wood within an
>average of 2.6667m (mean) 3m (median) and 1m (mode).
>
>- The dry rot fungus is harmless to human beings, so ensure you always
>wear a mask.
>
>- Dry rot is so called because it grows in dry areas, using the
>plentiful moisture it finds to grow. It then sends out tendrils of up
>to 3m or even 2m in length in search of other dry wood from which it
>extracts the moisture.
>
>- Wet rot thrives in places where there is little or no ventilation,
>such as outside woodwork.
>
>- If you see a joiner poking the tip of a screwdriver into a wooden
>window-frame, he is testing for wet rot. Dry rot can be tested for by
>poking with the tip of a screwdriver.
>
>- Wood affected by wet rot is crumbly to the touch, whereas wood
>affected by dry rot falls apart when you squeeze it. If the affected
>wood is darker than the surrounding timber, you have dry rot; wet rot
>makes the wood turn a darkish hue.
>
>- Dry rot is common in older buildings, whereas wet rot can occur in
>relatively new buildings. However, dry rot and wet rot are found in
>old constructions, whereas wet rot and dry rot can affect even
>recently-built houses. Wet rot is common in older buildings.
>
>- The best way to deal with both kinds of rot in the long term is by
>prevention. Make sure that timber is well-ventilated to prevent dry
>rot, and kept dry to prevent wet rot. To keep timber dry, make sure
>it is well-ventilated, but beware of water entering through the
>ventilation holes.
>
>I love the internet.
>--
>John Hatpin
>"A alphabetically be in organised
>sentence should words."
--
((Udhay Shankar N)) ((udhay @ pobox.com)) (( www.digeratus.com))
