Udhay has a pet phrase, "throwing Shuriken in all directions", that
reflects both his conversational gambit and his love of cheesy Hong
Kong flicks.

Nothing exemplies this better than Aakar Patel's latest column in
livemint, 
http://www.livemint.com/Articles/2012/03/29200444/Why-it-is-better-to-live-in-th.html

Udhay, shouldn't we have Aakar here? Would be a good counterpoint to
our resident master troll.

Ram
------
Why it is better to live in the south

The south’s urban culture is more intellectual. My hypothesis is that
this is so because its culture is dominated by the Brahmin

I prefer south India to north India. I also prefer south Indians to
north Indians. I wish Mehmood had defeated Kishore Kumar in Padosan’s
singing contest. The audience thinks Kishore’s Vidyapati trounces
Mehmood’s Master Pillai. But Vidyapati is on home ground singing in
Khamaj to a tabla playing Keherva and Teen Taal. Pillai is singing the
other man’s music. What if it had been the other way around?

The south Indian can access the north Indian’s music easily. Often he
even masters it. Witness Kannadigas Kumar Gandharva and Mallikarjun
Mansur in Hindustani music. Or Tamilians A.R. Rahman and Shankar
Mahadevan in Bollywood.

Classics: It takes merit to understand the true greatness of
Subbulakshmi (centre). Photo by Hindustan Times.

The reverse isn’t true. North Indians have little access to Carnatic,
being able to neither penetrate its rhythm nor absorb its melody. Few
can even bear listening to it because it is so foreign.

Historian Ramachandra Guha once described reading an editorial on M.S.
Subbulakshmi in a Hindi newspaper, I think it was Dainik Bhaskar. He
reported that the writer accurately and knowledgeably illustrated the
difference between the two music systems, and was able to locate the
Carnatic singer’s greatness.

This is exceptional and it is the rare north Indian writer who has
interest in, let alone knowledge of, the south’s music. On the other
hand, the best writer on Hindustani music I have read is a south
Indian, Raghava R. Menon.

The north Indian caricatures the south Indian in his popular culture,
his movies. This caricature is an accurate reflection of his own
crudeness and lack of subtlety. The south Indian has no such
caricature for the north. In fact, he is inclusive, and Bollywood
movies are shown in Chennai, to say nothing of Bangalore and
Hyderabad. I don’t think it is only the northern expatriate who
watches these, but again we cannot say the same of southern movies in
the north.

Clearly, the two cultures are different. Let’s look at some of the
substantive ways in which they differ.

The first thing that strikes us is that south Indians have a written
classical music. This has enormous implications. It separates them
from north Indians who have no canon of music. The average southerner
can assess a performance of his classical music better than the
average northerner can. This is because he knows how a particular song
is to be sung. He understands how long it must be, where and how the
thing must be modulated. And he knows how others have sung it, because
the works of Purandaradasa, Thyagaraja, Syama Sastri and Muthuswami
Dikshitar are standards.

To appreciate Hindustani music other than instinctively, a northerner
must study the deep form of his music, which few can. Else, he must
just nod his head at the mood emoted by the singer, which is what most
do, saying: “Wah!”

Writer Sheila Dhar observed that even here the southerner was
different. On first encountering it, she described the sound of
appreciation made by listeners of Carnatic music thus: “Whenever the
listener was smitten by something particularly wonderful that the
performer was doing, he would raise his chin, bring his lips together
in a protruding ‘O’, and make a series of little clicking sounds by
striking the tongue against the back of the front teeth, gently
shaking his head from side to side in mock helplessness.”

Their canon makes south India’s classical tradition like that of
Europe’s, where also the music of the classical period is recorded by
note and reproduced in exact fashion.

The second thing that strikes me as being different is that south
India’s high culture has little influence of Islam. It is Hindu
culture, not a mix. There is not as much secular music in Carnatic as
there is in Hindustani. There’s no equivalent of “Ganga Jamuni”, as
the northerner refers to his high culture, a mix of Hindu tradition
and the aristocratic Perso-Arabic tradition produced during Muslim
rule.

This might be seen as a bad thing. But the south Indian is actually
quite tolerant.

There are five loud mosques around my house in Bangalore, and some
robust proselytizing on the billboards surrounding them. However, this
carries on without any sense of friction.

North India’s high culture is Indo-Persian, whether in music or
poetry. Even some of the popular culture is influenced by Islam, such
as Amir Khusro. What is the south Indian Muslim’s high culture? I do
not know.

There is no urban Muslim aristocracy here unlike the north, were one
to exclude the Dakhni speakers of Hyderabad. Much of the culture
appears imitative of the north’s Indo-Persian tradition. This seems
out of place here, and perhaps one reason for the lack of mingling is
that for the most part the southern Muslim’s culture is low church,
and therefore unappealing to the outsider.

I puzzled over what the name of the largest mosque near my
house—called Khuddus Saheb—meant till I looked at the Arabic lettering
which showed it to be in fact Quddus Saheb. Similarly, Qadiriya is
spelled Khadiriya on the mosque in English. This is a mistake no
educated north Indian Muslim will make because the letter qaaf is
different from the letter khay.

The third thing is southern tolerance. Unlike the Baniya’s, the
southern Brahmin’s vegetarianism isn’t oppressive. The intolerant and
insular Gujaratis and Marwaris of Malabar Hill (writer Bachi Karkaria
called them the Malabar Hill Tribes) have banished all meat from their
neighbourhoods.

There is little sign of such horror of pork and beef eaters around
where I live. This may be because the area is not a traditional
Brahmin neighbourhood. But generally speaking, the Gujarati’s
fanaticism against meat is absent.

The fifth thing is the most important one for me. Mumbai has its
charms, but an intellectual life isn’t among them. It is a city of
singularly dull conversation. This is because south Mumbai is
dominated by Gujaratis, who are not an intellectual people and quite
proud of that fact. In the north of the city, Bollywood’s cacophony
effectively obliterates any other culture. It is true that the
middle-class Marathi is different, but he has no voice.

To my mind, the south’s urban culture is more intellectual. My
hypothesis is that this is so because its culture is dominated by the
Brahmin. I like keeping the company of Brahmins, I must admit. When I
listen to intelligent conversation in Bangalore and look around the
table, they dominate. People like U.R. Ananthamurthy would not be
treasured in another culture as they are in Bangalore. It seems to me
that civic life here is more intellectual, and certainly it strives to
be more intellectual than in Gujarat or Maharashtra.

The sixth observation is the commonly found ability of south Indians
to speak another (southern) state’s language. This comes from
proximity more than from any pressing desire to be multicultural. But
it shows the southerner’s openness, and even his canon of sacred music
includes songs from another state, in another’s language.

Few Gujaratis speak Marathi or are bothered to learn it, even when
they live in Mumbai. Cartoonist Hemant Morparia is the only Gujarati I
know who engages with Mumbai’s Marathi theatre.

I like Mumbai, and it is our one great city. But getting off a flight
from that city and into one of the cabs at Bangalore’s airport is
always a relief.

As I said, I prefer south India, and it is where I call home.

Aakar Patel is a director with Hill Road Media.

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