On 10 Dec 97 at 9:43, Nancy wrote: > QUESTION: > Do the wires get resistant to yielding the silver particles after > many uses? Is there a recommended "life" to these wires?
They are still shiny silver when you begin, virtually unchanged in diameter from when you started using them, and behave the same when when making your solution, correct? > I did try heating the water as suggested recently (and also by > Reid some time ago.) I yielded a wonderful deep amber solution > only using distilled water, the silver wires & 25cc of previously > made CS to get it started-- no food coloring! :) Good, I'm glad somebody noticed that posting! HEY LOOK, GANG! REPRODUCEABLE RESULTS! Thank you, Nancy. > After 35 minutes processing, although colorful, it was weak on the > metallic taste. (using old wires) I have not had a *strong* metallic taste to any of my preparations, thus far. I also do *not* see results as swift or dramatic as some people have reported. I have not tested for strength, yet. > QUESTION: > After a couple days in an amber bottle (old peroxide bottle > previously used for CS) the solution turned a rosy-amber color. I > wonder why. Oxidation, or photochemical reaction? Do you store it in a dark cabinet or inside a cardboard box or sleeve? I doubt it changes it's efficacy, much, over the timescale of use. > My handy husband has the potential opportunity to examine (for the > plan) a "Motherlode" generator that processes a quart of CS in 100 > minutes, at 45 ppm (as well as other time/qty. variables). That's > the range of strength recommended by some for Lyme disease; the > range that has apparently cured someone with Lyme disease in my > community. Excellent! It's nice to hear about CS in somebody's "community". It's nice to know word travels beyond the net. > I've always had slight symptoms here and there, and the recent > relapse confirmed to me that the bacteria is still there but had > been kept at bay at the lower dose. THE REALLY IMPORTANT QUESTION IS what dosage do you actually need to be effective agains Lyme? How many micrograms of silver per kilogram of body weight is needed on a daily basis, ie. what dose rate? The m*ld s*lver prot*en people have some articles on their web site talking about that. Once you know the dose you need, *then* calculate how much of *your* CS preparation is required to deliver the total dose (dose rate times body weight) that you need daily. For that you need to know the concentration (in milligrams per liter) of your preparation and figure the number of liters (or fraction of a liter) needed to deliver the dose required for your body weight. This is something I *still* have to do for myself, in addition to the ppm testing. If you've already done all that, and were actually taking enough of your CS that it *should* have been effective, then we all have some more work to do... > The best I got was 8.38 ppm in 350cc (60 minutes) with my simple > generator (Two .999 silver wires attached to 24 volts AC to DC via > alligator clips, supended in distilled water). Are you using AC or is it DC? Plug in the wall transformer? Filtered (smooth) DC or pulsing? Measure the voltage and see if it is still what it's supposed to be. If you've been driving the transformer too hard, it could be dying. Measure it *under* *load*, in other words, while it's connected to the silver cell. If you don't have a voltmeter, you can get a decent one from Radio Shack or similar store for $20 to $40. > Any longer a process & I'd have too much silver oxide to filter out > and would have to "babysit" the generator to watch for bridging. This is the main inconvenience to the pure water method over the ones that use electrolytes. That's why I was reluctant to stop using salt. It's more important to get a good product, though. I sympathise. > I've seen a picture of the "Motherlode" Generator. It's housed in a > large box big enough to set a 2 quart bowl on top of it. Brass arms > suspend over it, one holding a silver wire about 1/4" above the > water in the bowl, another holding a one ounce bar of silver in the > water about an inch away from the wire. That sounds fascinating. You say the one wire is not even in the water? What that tells me is they are capacitively coupling. The "production" electrode in the water is going to be alternatively positive (or negative), depending on which half-cycle of the AC voltage you're in. A certain amount of current (electrons) will flow into (when positive) or out of (when negative) the surface of the silver bar, to keep the capacitor formed by the water/air/wire structure fully charged to the applied voltage. > Apparently the process starts with a spark and a sputter of the > water; CS can be added (up to 1/4 cup) to get the process going and > thereby minimize or stop the sputtering. Apparently, no filtering > is necessary. It produces a clear colloidal silver solution with > obvious taste. I have the documentation on this device which sells > for $389. Certainly my husband could make one for less. I suspect > inside the box is simply the electrical connections. I suspect it > uses 110 volts. The initial sparking and sputtering tells me that they've set it up so the dielectric (insulator between the plates) is very near to breakdown at the beginning. Only after the whole surface of the water is conductive is the electric field spread out enough to avoid breakdown. I see no reason why it should not work. You must test for parts per million *and* PARTICLE SIZE before you will really know if it is safe and useful. Does the manufacturer make any claims about particle size, or offer any research or analysis? Any questions, please ask away! Good luck, and let's all work together to help Nancy out. We all need to learn the answers. Peace, Mike [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian] [[email protected] ] [Speaking only for himself... ]
