>Hi, Fred!  Can you share how you keep the bars in place?  Currently I use
>wires and since I'm generating the CS in a maynoaisse jar, I poked holes
>thru the lid.  With a bit of a curl at one end of the wire, I get a place
>to attach my alligator clips *and* a "stopper" to keep the wires from
>going thru the holes.

><<Michael>>   [email protected]

We have a design to make a gallon at a time, in a gallon jug, so we use 4.5"
and 6" long stainless steel bars with the silver bar mounted to the end of the 
shorter one with nylon screws. The steel bars act as the connection to our
circuitry. Since we have built in circuitry to measure and display the PPM
(TDS)
we insulate the stainless with vinyl so only the bottom 2 inches is
"active". The
stainless is a non-reactive mechanical and electrical connection, so we have 
a rigid assembly to insert into the jug, to prevent human rigging errors and to
maintain precise spacing, which is required for our metering. We sell to
individuals but also to medical facilities so we need to assure consistancy and
ease of use. We even auto-terminate the operation if the water is "salted"!

In your home design, I would suggest you get some stiff stainless wire and
bend it into a "U" shape and use some nylon screws to hold the silver bar to
the end of the "U" and bend the top ends so they can be screwed to the top
(plastic, not metal lid). The top screws can be metal, to give a connection for
your clips. This will give you some rigidity, to help maintain spacing, one of 
the many variables you should try to control. Do not use any spacer between
the wires below the water level or you will start bridging and forming crystals
quickly. Also, insulate the wire where it comes out of the water (celephane
tape is OK) or you will get a surface field which will start bridging with
a silver
film (crystals, as a shiny mirror film will cover the top if left running
long enough).

[email protected]


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