Thanks again for more good info Brooks, I have been interested in the Magnetic Pulsar for a long time. As I'm almost done putting together the nebulizer, I am excited to be able to being able to put one of these together also.
I couldn't come up with the website you referred to for Allied Electronics to purchase the capacitor used, so came up with www.alliedelec.com They had this part, same MFG part number (400v 300uf) Allied part number # 852-1468 at this website. They had a $50 minimum order, so I ordered all 4 that they had in stock, $10.80ea., If anyone would like one let me know. I will keep two. Make one for out of state family. Thanks again Brooks, I would like to join the off-topic list. Would someone mind providing that again?. Dee -----Original Message-----From: brooks bradley <[email protected]> To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Date: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 12:02 AM Subject: CS>MAGNETIC PULSER INFO Dear Mike, I apologize for making this post on this list, but so very many of the people desiring information on the device....relate that they are not on the "Off-List". I suggest that interested persons go to Dr. Richard Lloyd's website using this url www.royalrife.com/superthumpy.html His instructions are quite clear and easy to follow. This device (Super Thumpy) is a modified version of Dr. Bob Beck's device (essentially the same as the current Sota device)----which incorporates a modification to the original Thumpy variation of the Beck device. Of the devices we constructed and tested, this unit gave the best performance ------based upon cost/complexity considerations. It is quite adequate in power, for most "layman-type" users. Some may be interested in the Haining Pulser, which is a 240 vac device which is MUCH more powerful, but does pose some safety considerations. For the more adventurous types, just go to Richard's index page and scroll down to the word Haining (down in the electronic device section) for a circuit and limited general characters. The secret to making the Radio Shack party strobe powerful enough to do an adequate job is to increase the main capacitor strength. Richard settled for a 200 uf capacitor rated at 450 vdc. We found that a slightly lower voltage and a higher microfarad rating worked somewhat better. The 300 mf capacitor at 320 VDC from Allied he recommends works quite well. However, I suggest a possible variation----that we used. It is to use part number LPX331M400E7P3 400vdc (450 surge) X 320 MFD by Mallory (it is stocked by Allied Electronics ( http://www.allied.avnet.com) I believe it costs about $9.00 and is well worth it. It will fit quite nicely in the area where you remove the original capacitor from the top of the circuit board, of the little party strobe. Do remember that the Negative (-) capacitor lead is on the side where the black stripe is painted. Remember, all you are doing is inserting an electro-magnet in series with the strobe light. I am trying to download a couple of zoom photos of one of the units we modified.....to show "exactly" which lead from the strobe light we cut and spliced the coil (magnet wire coil assembly) leads into. The Radio Shack strobe unit costs about $35.00 and works very well. I do not know, exactly, what the coil Richard recommends costs.....as we wound all of our own on old VCR tape cores.......using #16 magnet wire. The knob on the front becomes a fine frequency control. Just advance in a CW direction until the unit is firing at the desired frequency. We have found that about once every 1.5 to 2.0 seconds gives superlative results for most applications. For a little more power.....set to about a 3.0 second firing frequency. NO commercial unit we evaluated gave results comparable to this little "shop-built" unit. The Haining unit is much more powerful......but does pose some possible hazards to the unskilled population. Additionally, the power levels are so high we have not established reliable safety parameters.....for general use. This is not a challenging project and does not require any special skills.....other than being able to use a soldering iron, wire cutters, stripper, a screwdriver---and some common sense. If you strike a snag....just give me a post. Good Luck ....Sincerely, Brooks Bradley. p.s. I recommend you use a 1/8" drill bit in an electric drill and bore about 10 well spaced holes in each side and the top -------of the strobe unit cover. This greatly assists in giving enough ventilation to prevent overheating.....during prolonged use. Otherwise, I suggest you use a small fan to keep the unit from experiencing a shortened life-----from lengthy periods of sustained use.
