Kevin, thanks for those links. Makes more sense to me now especially where
others were talking about using C-S as the mineral necessary for
conductibility in distilled water, for a second stage Acid/alkaline silver
generator.
Quite a few years ago I recall a "miracle water" machine made by some
engineer that used a "vortex" as part of his machine. It just hooked up
under the sink. All stainless steel and a bit pricy for me so I never
pursued that. The information sent to be (this was before the internet) was
several pages of his creditenials and explanation of how it worked. I seem
to recall that the super fast moving water was critical and maybe it moved
around a magnet or something. Showed pictures before/after of plants, blood
cells. A lot of details, sure wish I could find that. Sounds to me like the
ORP you talked about.

Ed Kasper LAC
Santa Cruz, CA
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Kevin Nolan [mailto:[email protected]]
  Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 2:49 AM
  To: [email protected]
  Subject: Re: CS>Acid/alkaline silver generator?


  Hi, Duncan.
                      Firstly, I'm a newbie to this game and have yet to
construct my own unit. Hopefully there are experienced users of
Acid/Alkaline makers that can contribute - hello Nina. Having said that, the
following observations may help.

  1: Magnets will do nothing in respect of separating ions in solution.
("Magnetic conditioning" of water is a separate field of which I have no
firm opinion on at this point).

  2: You seem to be referring to the DIY plans at angelfire.com.au when
talking about 12V as the suggested value. Attempting to use 4000 volts would
likely prove either catastrophic or disappointing, depending on the
available current draw. A potential (voltage) without current can do
nothing - it is current flow over time that matters. Optimum voltage - who
knows? I'd try about 30V initially, based on the following.

  3: The whole area is "wooley" - there are loose parameters such as
appropriate water conductivity, current draw, electrolysing time etc that
are just not properly discussed anywhere I have found. An example of trying
to "back-figure": Most commercial units seem to be rated at around 50-100
watts. Assuming 12 V DC at the electrodes, that works out at about 4-8 amps
current through the cell. That is supposed to be using just filtered tap
water. This seems way out. I have done a quick experiment, modifying my CS
unit. Two silver plate electrodes, each having a wetted area of 160mm X 40mm
X 2(both sides of plate included), separated by 62mm, with 23.7 V applied
between them, gave the following current draws:
  Distilled water:
1.5 mA
  Tap water:
21.3 mA
  Tap water plus 1/2 level tsp potassium citrate dissolved in: 393 mA
  While some vendors of batch type units recommend adding a pinch of sea
salt, it would have to be an awfully big pinch to get even 1 amp flowing. So
there are big question marks. Tap water conductivity will vary enormously
from one locale to another, which to me makes nonsense of any standard
procedure assuming tap water, which is just what most units do. Output must
be markedly dependent on input.

  5: What exactly are we trying to achieve - is it alkaline pH, negative ORP
(oxidation/reduction potential), or "microclustering" of the water? All
three are variously claimed to be "the" important factor. If it's pH, then
just adding a pinch of lime to plain water would suffice. If microclustering
is the thing, then despite the impression given by most vendors, only a tiny
fraction of the water could be converted, given the running times and likely
currents applying to their machines. I think the fellow at
www.h-minus-ion.org makes most sense - a highly negative ORP seems to be the
number one factor. That translates into maximising the level of dissolved
hydrogen. What is not clear is whether the hydrogen is simply dissolved H2
or "nascent" hydrogen as single-atom H, but presumably it is the latter. In
that case I would think vigorous stirring around the area of the negative
electrode is advisable - sweep hydrogen away before it can combine to
produce H2 gas. How much nascent H can water hold? How much is desirable?
What factors affect it's stability? I have not even seen these questions
asked let alone answered. So without solid parameters to aim for, I'm afraid
much is left to anecdotal accounts and vendor statements that often
conflict. Vendors can't be blamed for unwillingness to divulge all, but it
would help to get some really useful info!

  6: There is one site that nicely provides the clues for making a cheap
unit - http://www.quantumbalancing.com/e-water.htm. Notice that carbon
electrodes seem to be used.

  Hope the above helps. Regards, Kevin Nolan [email protected]

  Original message:

  Hi Kevin;

  The instructions for the alkaline water maker say that 12 volts is
enough...
  some instructions I saw somewhere indicate you could also use one or 2
  magnets to separate the water into ionic components, and that current was
  not required; only the potential was.

  Or are we interested in not only ionic separation, but hydrolization to
get
  those hydrogen ions?

  The 12-volt thing takes several hours...how about if I was to try the 4000
  volt microwave circuit I use to make colloidal silver?? Do you think I
could
  make a batch in several minutes?

  Anyone got some details/ideas on this?

  Duncan Crow