Colloidal Silver Maker Instructions
Do this any time other than the week surrounding the new moon (when the
moon is overhead at noon) if you want to
be successful. Also, The best time to make colloidal silver is during
what is called 'the solunar period.' There are two
solunar periods each day. They begin approximately 6 hours after either
moon-rise or moon-set, and last for about
90 minutes. Since moon rise/set times change every day, you will have
to figure out when these times are for your
local area. Many metropolitan newspapers publish this moon rise/set
times daily.
### Some weird inexplicable things can happen...usually turning an
otherwise clear CS to yellow or violet, BUT, the most predictable factor is
[IMO] temperature. Lunar cycle? Why not sunspots? Humm,maybe.
Heat 8 oz distilled (not deionized) water just enough so that you can't
keep your fingers in the water. (make sure you
wash first.)
### Water over 110 deg F tends to make a yellow CS, probably due to
excessive brownian motion causeing collisions of particles that would have
otherwise stayed apart.
Water that's cold has a lower saturation point that may allow
yellow/larger particles to from before the ions are solvated and hydrated
[simply put...isolated in small groups by orientation with water molecules
so that when the saturation point is reach, they will make small crystal
formations]
Plug the silver electrodes into the dual female jack. Which one goes where
is not important. Make sure
electrodes are spaced evenly 1" apart (check with ruler and bend
outward if necessary). Put the water into a glass
container that's wrapped with black electrical tape to block out light.
(If you're making colloidal silver by plugging in
### I have found that light makes no difference at all. ["maybe" UV light,
but running batches with a solar panel and heating the water with direct
sunlight during the run showed no negative effect at all] In fact, using a
desk lamp or light box to supply a small amount of uneven heat will stir
the mix via thermal water currents and help hydrate the ions so the CS will
come out clear. The danger here is if the water cools off too fast and too
cool, the larger [yellow] particles can form even after several hours.
You'll want the saturation point to drop at a slow rate.
...in the water the color should be light yellow or golden yellow.
Other colors indicate the particle size is slightly larger
than the ideal size which may be due to using a low quality distilled
water.
### Yellow is still small enough but no color is much smaller and [IMO]
the desired size
If there is no color then clean the electrodes
and treat another cup of water for 25 minutes. Keep increasing the time
by 5 minutes until you are successful. If
you're unable to produce yellow water then try another brand of
distilled water. If the solution becomes very yellow
then dilute it with more distilled water so that it's only slightly
yellow to insure that the solution is close to being 5ppm
silver.
## The color has nothing whatever to do with concentration...depth of
color has 'something' to do with concentration but is not any sort of
indicator as to what the concentration is.
Using this method, 25 PPM CS will look very dark brown...even tinged
black, but it's not that hard to make a pretty strong and clear CS. The
stronger it is the harder it is to make and keep it stable but crystal
clear 20-30 PPM is not too hard and more is possible.
This is one way to make colloidal silver.
## About the most primitive way...but a way.
A more exacting method proposed by Peter Lindemann is to time the
process for 10 minutes and then at the end of
that time look closely at the water for silver particle clouds coming
from the electrodes. They can be very faint looking
wispy clouds and of a brown or yellowish color.
### If they are anything but white, something's running too fast. I have,
however , seen white clouds coming from one electrode and golden at the
other...interfacing at exact center.... and the CS came out crystal clear
at well over 20PPM. This is very hard to see.
Use a flashlight to look for them. Wait until you see them beginning
(which may take 5-15 minutes more), then set the timer for another 5
minutes. Take the electrodes out at the end of
that 5 minutes. This is the best method although it takes good eyesight
to do it. With either method if it takes more
than 25 minutes you should heat the distilled water more before
treatment because heat accelerates the process. Try
different temperatures up to boiling. Shelf life is at least 6 months.
If the silver particles stop being suspended in the
water then the yellow color will not be evident.
## The color will deposit on the storage container over time leaving the
remaining clear CS suspended in the water. Pale Yellow CS still has a
fairly high percentage of smaller particles that won't settle out or
deposit even after years of storage.
Clean the electrodes with a very rough plastic kitchen scrub pad (with
all soap rinsed out) between each treatment.
### I have found that deposits of all types are reduced if the electrodes
are left rough. Just wipe them off but don't scrub.
Don't ever stir the solution with anything metal.
## Not so sure that that's a problem
Never use silver cleaner
or anything chemical to clean the electrodes. Try different brands of
distilled water to see which brand best produces
a yellow color when through. Avoid brands that cause excess black
residue to accumulate on electrodes during
treatment process.
## Distilled water that still as a great deal of ozone dissolved in it
tends to make the black deposits greater. Any oxygen dissolved in the water
will combine with silver and make black silver oxides. Let it vent for a
while. Bubbles may form on the sides of the container as it outgasses.
[heat and let cool unsealed?] The same water left partially open for
several days has done better than fresh sealed water for me. Most distilled
water is "ozonated"
The best brand out of four I've tried is 'Land Sky' from Ingles grocery
store. One way to test
brands is to get a swimming pool PH tester from KMart and test for
which brand has the lowest PH (which is more
desirable). To know how many parts per million (ppm) of silver the
final solution has, then just buy a Pure Water
Tester (HI 98308. 99.9us/cm maximum with a +/- 2% accuracy. 11.6us/cm =
5 ppm) from Hanna Instruments and
put it into the solution to get a digital readout.
## Shouldn't pure distilled be neutral?
This guy seems to be one of many who thinks 'OK' CS is the best and
proceeds to tell you how not to make really good CS. OK is OK, OK?
What's cool about that viewpoint is that success results from having
something go sorta wrong, so failure is nearly impossible..and that sits
well with the average consumer who wants to see something happening.
Making crystal clear CS is not nearly as dramatic and may lead some to
wonder if anything at all happened.
Ken
Making Colloidal Silver
At 05:56 PM 12/25/01 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>
I know heating is unnecessary for good CS.
Other comments on this method of making CS?
Especially on the emphasis of yellow water?
the Peter Lindemann approach,
http://www.excel.net/~jaguar/silver-instr.html
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