The following is a series of messages generously sent to the list by
Brooks Bradley.
I retrieved them from my hard drive as I know how hard it is to search
the archive.
Ivan
To all interested list members:
Recently, a rather serendipitous occurence
revealed
a possible synergistic effect through the combination of CS and LED
protocols.....utilized simultaneously.
During a recent evaluation of protocols directed
toward alleviating the problems of long-term, persistent, sinus/upper
throat insults, one of our researchers experienced some unexpected
success----from combining CS mist inhalation and LED exposure. The
most
interesting factor being the nature of the LED array application.
During earlier experiments, it had been determined that LED exposure
(especially in the 660 to 680 nm range) resulted in very pronounced
control of upper throat pathogens. Exposure times as short as 5
minutes, directed through the open mouth (using 5 element, 3500 mcd
Leds), achived immediate and marked relief---in an impressive number
(75%) of cases......across the entire age spectrum from 25 to 83 years
of age. However, the success rate/degree was much less (25%)
involving
cases of deep-seated sinus insults from pathogenic/allergenic
complications. Principally, because of the difficulty experienced in
directly illuminating the insulted tissue.
The protocol adjustment resulting in a most pronounced
improvement in frontal sinus infections/complications, sprang from the
simple application of a 15 element LED array (1.5" X 3" in area) being
held against the skin surface---first on one side directly adjacent to
the nose for 5 to 10 minutes; followed immediately by a repetition on
the other side of the nose. The geometry is somewhat difficult to
explain without a drawing, but imagine placing the array in such a
manner to rest one corner on the middle of the bridge of the nose
(addressed from the side) then repeating for the other side. The
array
should placed with the long side in the horizontal (3.5" X 1.5 ")
extending away from the nose----keeping the array below the eye. The
soft-tissue is penetrated quite well and we believe the bony
structures
may be providing some unanticipated diffusion benefits.
The throat area was treated in two ways: First, after
a
thorough misting, with the mouth fully open, a 5 element (circular)
LED
array was used to directly expose the back of the mouth/tonsil
area.....for 5 minutes. The front edge of the array was allowed to
rest
on top of the lower front feeth. As the subject experienced saliva
generation they were instructed to swallow---without closing their
mouth. This had the added advantage of , momentarily, changing the
geometry of the tonsile area to give an increased exposure.
The most dramatic results accrued from the application
of the 15 element LED array on the "outside" of the throat area ( from
just below the jaw bone, downward). Prior to using this modification,
we had only conjectured as to a possible benefit from such an
arrangement. Afterward, we conducted some soft-tissue penetration
tests
using 3500 to 6000 mcd LEDs. Even the 3500 mcd bulbs yielded >.5"
penetration.
We are, at present, conducting tests to determine
the
minimum power LED that will yield positive results under similar
conditions.
A single Laser Pointer unit was tested with some,
but much reduced effectiveness .
This, combined protocol, yielded positive control
over some very pernicious---long-standing---frontal sinus insults.
Some of you may care to conduct your own
experiments
along these lines. Sincerely,
Brooks Bradley.
p.s. I have not forgotten my promise to post the assembly
instructions
for the 5 element LED array, contained in the pvc tubing. I WILL try
to
get it done sometime before the week is out.
CS>OT: POSSIBLE USEFUL ADJUNCTIVE PROTOCOL
To all interested llist members.
Recently, we completed a series of evaluations
which
yielded VERY substantial results. These evaluations were a
continuation
of earlier protocols employing LED units in experimenting for
effective
protocols. One protocol, IN PARTICULAR.....gave particularly
efficacious results. This, experimental protocol, involved the
application of 660 nm red-spectrum light, (via both 5 bulb portable
and
larger, more powerful non-portable units). The weakest bulbs to yield
high-quality results were on the order of 3500 mcd ( 5 bulbs arranged
in
a compact, circular assembly). The most rapid results were achieved
with a much higher -powered (non-portable) unit of our own design and
construction. This latter unit possesses a tissue-penetration
capability of greater than 8 " -----for lean-muscle tissue. However,
VERY ACCEPTABLE results were gained from the simple...low-powered
unit.
The actual protocol was as simple as it was
effective. The procedure involved placing the light-source transducer
directly over the navel (actually touching the skin with the
low-powered
unit in many cases) and maintaining for periods varying from 20 to 60
minutes per exposure. Since human cells maintain a self-determining
control response over "diffused light", there was no danger of
contravening effects arising from over-exposure or excessive
high-intensity light concentrations. The beneficial effects----and
there were several----accrue from the fact that the aorta lies
DIRECTLY
behind the navel. This circumstance allows complete exposure to the
circulating blood supply----in very short order.
I will not, at this time, elaborate on exactly
what we were evaluating, but do relate that this experimental protocol
proved to be EXCEPTIONALLY safe----and effective on a number of
blood-borne pathogens------in VERY SHORT time periods (e.g. 2 hours,
in
some cases). Effectiveness was monitored ---in vitro---via
continuing,
sequential blood extractions on the venous side.
The advantages of this type of protocol should
appear obvious to many on this list. It appears to be effective,
swift,
economical-----and simple to accomplish. Additionally, it promises a
useful tool for an astonishingly small cost. While, obviously, not a
panacea........this simple experimental approach promises an effective
ancillary address-----for some very serious conditions.
Sincerely, Brooks
Bradley.
p.s. Much of the visual evaluation was accomplished in
----essentially---- real time, using dark-field microscopy.
CS>Parts List for Layman's Led Device
To all intersted List members.
This posting is to outline the parts list
for the simple LED-based device I mentioned earlier.
First, a couple of caveats. I am not attempting to abrogate any
commercial builders' income stream---nor to deny them
customers----but
rather, to offer a possible aid to those researchers among you not
financially able to purchase a similar.....or more elaborate LED
system
of this type.
Second, this little system was designed----and used---only for
external skin-surface experiments, articulating-joint arthritic
evaluations, and lean-tissue bruise/trauma research......nothing else.
It does not incorporate pulsers, frequency modulation/shift modes,
voltage variations, etc.
Within the parameters examined, it has been a SPLENDID, low-cost
ancillary research tool. We suspect it to offer pronounced promise
for
other, as yet, untested circumstances.
Following is a list of the basic parts, together with an
occasional general comment. I will try to post the assembly
instructions tomorrow or the next day. Unfortunately, I am extremely
busy at present and the demands upon the available time for my waking
moments is quite pressing. Otherwise, I would be more
professional...and certainly more rapid, in addressing this little
chore. The total parts cost for a 15 element array--complete--was
less
than $30.00 US.
Parts List: From Radio Shack. One each. Slide Switch.
#275-409A (3A @ 125vac). Optional: [one each. AA Battery-holder
(4
space), #270-391A. ]. Rosin-Core solder 60/40 #64-005; or any
good electrical solder .032 in diameter.
Approximately 5' of any good hook-up wire; size 30 awg
(single-conductor preferred-----easier to strip without damage).
6" W X 8" L X 1" Thick styrofoam sheeting. Or
preferably, a 30 cal. carbine cartridge holder (the plastic or
styrofoam
base which holds the cartridges in the box they are purchased in.).
The
dimensions are perfect to receive the LED connection bases....and it
makes a fine over-all assembly base----without any hole-boring or
trimming.
From Mouser Electronics. Website is
http://.www.mouser.com Although similar
parts may be obtained from
other sources.
cat. # 604-L53SRCE T-1 3/4 Red Clear LED @ $.55 each.
cat. # 593-CNX310000 T1 3/4 CONN @ $.47 each
A one-ohm (1) carbon resistor of anywhere from 2 to 5 watts power
rating (many sources).
Access to a small hand drill (manual or electric), plus a 21/64
drill bit (needed to drill holes in the styrofoam sheet for assembly
base).
Access to a small-tip electrical/electronics soldering iron.
You may purchase as many LEDs, plus sockets.....as you
require. Do be advised, that all "live" electrical measurements
referred to later, are for a 10 LED array system. However, both of my
proto-types were 15 element assemblies.
The one ohm resistor works for assemblies up to 25
elements. It is used as a voltage-dropper for two series-connected AA
batteries (or 4 connected in series-parallel to yield 3 volts DC
nominal) The one ohm resistor is connected in series with the power
supply (the batteries) to reduce system voltage from approx. 3.1 vdc
to
2.1 vdc. This will keep the operating parameters near the middle of
the
efficiency curve for these LEDs (increasing operating life). At 2.1
vdc, operating 10 of these LEDs, the current draw is approximately 168
milliamps. Braver souls may choose to over-drive the LEDs at 3.1
vdc,
which will yield considerably more MCD power, but will reduce the
useful
life of the LEDs. Due to the fact you are gaining up to the vicinity
of
4500 mcd, it may be worth the trade-off to some. Just eliminate the
one
ohm resistor and you have the high light----high power condition. Do
remember, that 2.5 vdc is the upper design limit for nominal bulb
life.
This list is, partially, from memory and the device is not in
front of me. I could have omitted something, but I do not believe so.
If I have, I will furnish it with the assembly instructions.
Disclaimer: Some among you may consider the assembly
instructions infantile, in the extreme. However, I have chosen to try
to enable the average "lay-person" possessing very little technical
knowledge/experience, to construct this (we believe) useful little
device. I consider this target audience to be intelligent, but
somewhat
limited in knowledge for constructing such a device. I have little
interest in impressing---or instructing---the more technically capable
among you. Most of that group are able to construct many arrays far
superior to this simple unit.
Assembly details will follow shortly.
Sincerely, Brooks Bradley.
CS>ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYMAN'S LED DEVICE: PART #1
To all interested list members. My sincere
apology for being so tardy in executing this post.
These instructions will be posted in two, separate
parts. This is part one.
Before I begin I would like to identify a couple of
possible part numbers for the 1 ohm resistor. A useful one may be
found
at Mouser Electronics. In their current catalogue it is 283-1.0.
This
is a small size metal oxide power resistor, rated at 3 watts
continuous
(about .6" in body-length).. If you prefer a wirewound resistor, I
suggest the silicone coated one. The number for it is 71-RS2B-1.0
The
body of this resistor is slightly over .5" in length. They each
cost
about $.40....quite reasonable.
Because of the added difficulty in explaining, and for
the builder to properly execute....the paper template, I am going to
describe the construction of a 13 element, not a 15 element unit.
Additionally, because of the difficulty for unskilled persons to
maintain proper tolerances when drilling styrofoam, I have opted for
using wood....it is more forgiving.
1. Using a short length of !" X 4" softwood (fir or white pine)
planking, mark and cut off a 3.5" length. This gives a small 3-5/8"
X
3-1/2" rectangle. (The reason for this shape is that the wood is cut
in
3-5/8" width at the sawmill).. Set aside for later use.
2. Using either plain paper, or 1/4" quadrille pad, construct
the
following template:
using a ruler--and or a drafting triangle--construct a
3.5"
X 3.5" square.
a. Starting at the upper left-hand corner of the 3.5"
square, construct a second square, starting EXACTLY .5" inside the
original square (the 3.5" one). This results in a 2.5" square inside
a
3.5" square..
b. Next, beginning at the upper left-hand corner of
the
2.5" square, mark off the entire perimeter in 5/8" intervals.
c. Next, connect each of the top-to-bottom points
with
a straight line, and then connect the horizontal interval points with
separate, straight lines. This yields a grid of 16 equal squares.
d. This is your drill-pattern template.
3. Carefully cut out this template along the outside lines of the
3.5" square.
4. Next carefully align the template against the upper left-hand
corner of the wooden block (align with the 3.5" dimension in the
horizontal---left to right).
5. Tape in place with small squares of making tape, taking care
not
to allow tape to overlay the paper template edges more than .25".
6. With the template securely in place, and using a sharp scribe
or
drawing compass point, push through the paper EXACTLY at the corner
points of the inside (2.5") square.
7. Next, punch through each point INSIDE and along the OUTSIDE
edges where any two lines connect or intersect.
8. What you now have are 25 small dots arranged in a square grid.
Using a ball-point pen, press and ink each dot.
9. These marks make up your drilling pattern.
10. Next using a 23/64 drill bit in a drill press or hand drill,
center each dot--in turn--and drill each hole all the way through.
11. Now you have completed the LED assembly mounting base. It
should look like the schematic below.
O_ O O_ O O_
O O_ O O_ O
TOP O_ O O_ O
O_ BOTTOM
O O_ O O_
O
O_ O O_ O
O_ -
The marked holes (ones with the _ next to them)
represent the ones which will be filled with an LED unit.
12. Next, select an LED and cut each wire lead down to
approximately
3/8" in length. Now carefully insert the LED into
one of the LED connector bases.
13. Next, using a AA size battery, with short leads ( 4" to 6"
long)
attached to each end (soldered on is best, but strongly taped with
bare
ends making good contact.....is acceptable)-----touch the soldering
lugs
extending from the bottom of the LED mounting connector with the leads
from the AA battery. If the LED does not light up, switch the leads
from the battery and the LED should light up. When the LED is burning
the connections are correct. (Remember, these are DIODES and will
conduct in only one direction.)
14. Note which solder lug the positive (+) battery lead is
touching
and mark (using a permanent marker) vertical a line down the side of
the
LED mounting base closest to this solder lug.
15. Repeat this procedure for each LED you intend to use.
16, Remember, when you connect the LEDs to their power supply,
they
will ONLY burn if connected correctly.....in parallel arrangement;
that is, each one is to be connected across the power-supply (not in
sequence to each other, which would be a series connection).
17. Next, for a 13 element assembly select a 26" section of 30
gage
hook-up wie and cut into 13 sections of 2" lengths.
18. Next. select a DIFFERENT colored 26" section of hook-up wire
and cut it into 13 sections of 2" lengths. One group will be your
Negative (-) and one group will be the Positive (+) leads for the LEDs
to be connected to the trunk lines.
19. Next, trim approximately 3/8" of insulation off of each
end...of each 2" lead wire.
20. Next, keeping the colored wires common to their polarities
(positive color to the MARKED side of the LED connector base and
negative color to the other side) connect the 2" leads so each LED has
one (-) and one (+) attached to its connector base.
You are now ready to start the final assembly procedure.
I must close now, it is almost 1:30 in the
morning......long past my bed-time.
This is the end of part #1 of the assembly instructions.
Sincerely, Brooks
Bradley.
CS>OT:ASSEMBLY INSTR. FOR LAYMAN'S LED DEVICE....continued Part #2
Hello list members.....time for more
of
my incoherent ramblings.
21. Next, select one LED unit and insert it into the wooden base
assembly; starting from the upper left-hand corner is convenient.
Repeat for each LED unit (arranged in staggered pattern) until all
units
are in place.
NOTE: Be sure to align the LEDs in a manner that places
the
negative leads of two rows closest to each other; then the postive
leads
closest to each other in the next two rows.....keeping this
relationship
for all connections where two series of LEDs face each
other......across
the entire assembly. Note the following schematic.
Top Trunk ----------------------------------
- *+ O +*- O - +*
Trunk # 1 ----------------------------------
O + * - O + *- O
Trunk # 2 ----------------------------------
+*- O + *- O + *-
Trunk # 3 ----------------------------------
O + *- O + *- O
Trunk # 4 -----------------------------------
+*- O + *- O + *-
Bottom -----------------------------------
Trunk
Trunk #1 will have the positive (+) leads from the
two
closest rows connected to it; Trunk # 2 will have the negative (-)
leads from the two closest rows connected to it: Trunk # 3 will have
the positive (+) leads from the two closest rows connected to it:
Trunk
# 4 will have the negative leads from the two closest rows connected
to
it; The Top Trunk will have the negative (-) leads from the top row
connected to it; The Bottom Trunk will have the positive (+) leads
connected to it. Do remember that the trunks are nothing more than 6"
lengths of 30 gage hook-up wire.
22. Now is a good time to fabricate the Trunk lines. Select an 18"
section of hook-up wire with the Positive-side (+) color and cut it
into
three 6" sections. Repeat, using the Negative-side (-) colored wire.
23. Next, starting at either end of a Negative-side colored Trunk
wire, strip approximately 3/8" of insulation from the tip; measure
approximately 3/4" from the middle of the stripped end and remove a
3/8"
section of insulation; measure another 3/4" from the center of this
stripped section and remove another 3/8" section of insulation. You
trunk line should look something like this:
---=====---=====---========================= This is your Top
Trunk line.
24. Next, select a Positive-side (+) section of Trunk line and repeat
the above procedure. This is your Trunk # 1 line. Repeat this
procedure using Negative color for Trunk # 2, Positive for Trunk # 3,
Negative for Trunk # 4, and Positive color wire for the Bottom Trunk
line.
25. Next, connect up the Positive leads from the first two rows
(Trunk
#1) in a manner that gives easy access to one of the three bare-wire
sections of the trunk. DO NOT SOLDER YET.
26. Next, connect up the Negative leads from the second and third row
(Trunk # 2) in similar fashion as you did Trunk # 1. Repeat for Trunk
#
3, using Positive leads; Trunk # 4 using Negative leads; and Bottom
Trunk, using Positive leads.
27. After all of the LEDs are connected to the Trunk Line system,
connect all of the Positive Trunk lines together to form a common
conductor. Do the same thing for the Negative Trunk lines.
NOTE: Use your own judgement as to which lines must be
shortened, and which (if any) are left untrimmed......in order to
fabricate a manageable harness assembly.
28. Before proceeding further, test your light assembly using your AA
battery fabricated earlier for polarity determination of your LEDs.
This is accomplished simply by touching the leads from the AA battery
assembly to the positive and negative leads from your LED assembly. I
nothing lights up, reverse the leads. If some units are not burning,
check to be sure they are not connected improperly. If they are, the
easiest thing to do is to pull out the LED bulb and turn is around and
plug it back in. Unless you have a bad connection, it will burn
properly.
29. As soon as you have all the lights burning properly, it is time
to
solder EVERY connection. Do this next, and as soon as you have
finished.....test the assembly again----for proper operation. If
everything is working properly, carefully flatten the wire assembly
down
on the back of the wooden base assembly, being CAREFUL to keep the
inside Trunk lines in their proper places. DO NOT short anything out
by
sloppy alignment.
30. Next, select your little slide switch (#275-409A) and connect a
short (4") section of hook-up wire to one side, and a similar wire to
the other side. Now place the slide switch on one side of the wooden
assembly base (your choice) and temporarily tape in position..
31. At this point you have an option of either using a "homemade",
but
very simple arrangement of two AA batteries, connected in series or to
modify the 4-space AA battery holder from Radio Shack (#270-391A).
32. I recommend modifying the battery holder, as this makes battery
replacement much easier, plus the fact that four batteries lengthen
the
time between replacements. The modification is quite simple, but
somewhat tricky to explain clearly---without clear schematics. I do
not
have a scanner at home, and do not have time to work on this at my
office. Therefore, I must try to make do and answer questions
privately, from those who have difficulty.
33. Select the AA battery holder and place it in front of you with
the
red and black leads on top and the open side of the holder facing you.
Notice that there is a small wire running along the bottom/back of the
holder, that connects the outside batteries. We are going to leave
the
two outside batteries connected in series, but break the connection
between the 2nd and third batteries. Additionally, we are going to
leave the inside batteries connected in series, and to connect both
assemblies in parallel (+ to + and Neg. to Neg.). This actually
yields
a Series X Parallel power supply connection.
34. Assume the following numbering scheme. From left to
right...facing
the open side of the holder....#1--#2---#3---#4. Using a small pair o
f
diagonal cutters (pliers), cut the wire coming off the wire-spring
base
at the top of battery #1. Cut as close to the end (going in to slot
#
2) of the wire, as possible. Using needle-point pliers, pull the end
of
the wire through the slot on top of the battery holder. Next, solder
a
3" or 4" length of hook-up wire to the end of this wire. This becomes
the negative lead for batteries #1 and #4.
35. Next, carefully solder another length of hook-up wire to the hole
in the top of holder slot #2. This becomes the positive lead for
batteries #2 and #3.
36, Next connect both Positive leads together and both Negative
leads
together. Notice the markings on the batteries----and on the back of
the battery holder to insure proper installation. Be sure to leave
enough length to reach anywhere along the perimeter of the wooden
base
assembly. You can, always, shorten wires.
37. You now have a four battery, 3 volt DC power source.
38. Next, fabricate a piece of thin plastic sheeting that is the
same
size as the wooden LED assembly base and glue the AA battery holder to
this plastic sheet. After the glue sets, using electrical tape, fix
the AA battery holder to the bottom side of the wooden LED assembly
base. Be sure to leave a bare space along the side of the assembly
where you are going to attach the slide switch.
39. Next, place the 1 ohm resistor along the bottom edge of the AA
battery holder and form the red lead from the top of battery slot #4
down along the side of the holder and cut to the proper length to
connect with either lead coming out of the 1 ohm resistor. Trim the
wires to the necessary length and twist them together and solder.
Next,
solder a 4" length of hook-up wire to the OTHER end of the 1 ohm
resistor. This becomes the Positive power lead for the LED assembly.
40. Next, shorten the lead coming away from the slide switch to the
proper length to connect with the Positive power lead assembly (all of
the Positive Trunk Lines twisted together) coming from the LED
assembly.
41. Be sure to shorten one---or both--- wires as required to make a
reasonably symmetrical arrangement. Common judgement is the key here.
42. When things are acceptably lined up, permanently attach the slide
switch to the side of the wooden LED base assembly, using a suitable
adhesive (a spot of epoxy works well)..
43. You can epoxy the 1 ohm resistor to the bottom of the battery
holder, after everything is properly aligned.
Hopefully, everything is in place and the unit
works. Good Luck, for those of you who are game to try it.
If you have problems and/or specific questions, just
email me OFFLINE.
Sincerely. Brooks
Bradley.
p.s. Hopefully, my mail program will not wrap-around the schematic.
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