G'day,<<<<
Bear with me here, this is a tad long...
I've finished building my first CS generator... I used the instructions from
Mr. Stenulson's website and built a pulsed DC version (using 18 volts). My
testing with a digital meter confirms that the circuitry is working
correctly. Until I can get some electrode material ordered (in the form of
wire or flat strips), I decided to experiment a little bit with silver coins
(one Canadian Maple Leaf and another collector coin that is labeled
".999+" ). Though I made a "practice" batch of CS, my setup is far
from perfect and needs a 'lot' of fine-tuning before I'll drink any of it -- I
just wanted to see if it all worked. I ended up using a styrofoam plate
with parallel slits cut into it to suspend the coins from... I pushed the
coins just enough through the slits that I could attach the alligator clips
to them -- ended up with just over half of each coin submerged.
Now, remember that I only made this batch to see if everything was working
correctly... I used distilled water at room temperature. My coins were
placed 1" apart (for no good reason - thats just where I cut the slits for
this first go-around). The initial reading on my digital meter was ~9 volts &
.13mA which increased 'very' slowly up to 2.5mA after about 1 hour -- at
which point I stopped the process. I would describe the result as "very
slightly cloudy" in appearance (just cloudy enough to tell that its not just
plain water). In my opinion it is not even the slightest shade of yellow
though (even after 36 hours). When using a laser, there is a pronounced and
distinct Tyndall effect (even when viewed in a lit room).
Now for the questions...
1. Given the above set-up... what would be a good distance to have the
electrodes apart from each other?
## The distance will determine current draw if no current controls are being used. You can start close and move them away from each other gradually. Stir now and then to disrupt ion pathways between the electrodes and distribute ions and particles and the current draw will decrease. One inch seems a bit close. Pulsing the DC only increases run time...though it may also give some time for ion pathways to destructure and dissipate. K
>>>>
3. Does the "very slightly cloudy" (but not yellow - more whitish, in fact)<<<<
appearance (with the distinct Tyndall effect) of my finished product indicate
that it is an inferior CS? From what I've read, a distinct Tyndall effect
indicates large particles, correct?
## A heavy TE AND a yellow color indicates 'larger' particles. Just a heavy TE indicates a 'lot' of particles. Not bad...just quite strong. [very good, I think]
After 13-18 PPM the ionic saturation point of the water is reached and particles begin to form and go into colloidal suspension. As long as there is no color, they're very small.
It should look crystal clear in indirect light and whitish/cloudy in direct light. A crystal clear CS with a heavy TE will also reflect any color placed near it. Sometimes it's hard to tell what color it isn't.
If the CS is cloudy looking in indirect light, I'd suspect some mineral contamination. If the milkyness vanishes over time...possibly some emulsification. K
>>>>
4. The instructions given on the website I mentioned say that when using 3<<<<
1/4" of submerged electrodes spaced 1/2" apart in water that is 150-180
degrees, that stopping the process at 8mA generally yields 20ppm. Apparently
this process takes roughly 35 minutes if you use 1/4 of a previous batch of
CS as a starter... with the setup I described, I was only at about 2.5mA
after an entire hour (and I was using 18v compared to his 15v). Any possible
ideas for such a difference? Is it a combination of the electrodes being
twice as far apart and the water temperature being only room temperature?
Anything else?
####Both the distance and water temp has an effect on conduction [current draw] K
>>>>
I'll stop there for now. Hehe!
Thanks in advance to anyone who takes on the challenge of addressing this
post! :-)
Mike
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