> Re: CS>Re: Re: CS>Re: Re: CS>RE: Current limitation Please check my math > From: Robert Berger > Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 14:48:19
> Thanks Mike, > I've been bit a few times building my xmtrs!! > I'll keep your post so I will remember. > "Ole Bob" Hah - I knew there was something about you that I liked:) They must have been 6L6's, 807's or 6146's. Anything in the 813 or 4-65 class and you probably wouldn't be here to tell us about it. I am very pleased to meet you, and I'm grateful for your posts - especially on stirring the cs to eliminate agglomeration. I came across this one the other day: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/m37060.html RE: CS & Stiring From: Robert L. Berger Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 10:55:55 Hi Larry et al, The stirrer is a 2" to 3" piece of insulation from a #14 copper house wire. Some have stripped the copper out and just used the insulation which is a nice push on to the motor shaft. I have used straightened piece of #14 cu insulated wire 3" long with a 15 deg bend on the outboard end to stir a cylinder 4 1/4" dia x 11" as well as a 16 oz SOLO beverage cup. As for speed, I can't measure it but the runing voltagae is about 0.80 volts. a full 1/2 volt throws water everywhere. I like to mount the motor in the center of the lid of my brew cell. That allows me to space the wires about 1 1/2" to 2" apart. I like about 5" wet length on the #14 ga. silver wires. If one uses constant voltage but a meter in one line to measure the current, and shut-off at about 3 to 4 ma. The time will depend on the volume of DW. For 14 oz I use a pair of #14 ga silver wires. If I go with more DW then I like to increas the silver electrode area by the same ratio i.e. 28 oz use two wires or go to sheet stock,etc. The conductivity increases with brew time, as does the PPM. Any more questions. "Ole Bob" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- This got my interest right away, since I have always had problems with silver depositing on the side of the glass. My first attempt was bubbling with a small acquarium pump. It threw water all over the place, but the cs stayed clear! This was the first time I had ever seen this happen. The second attempt with with a small motor from a tape deck spinning a drinking straw. I had to put a 200 ohm resistor in series with the motor to slow it down, but it worked also. I am now trying thermal stirring. I took the lid from a Carnation CoffeeMate jar and scraped off the coating with steel wool. It tins fine, so I am soldering eight 330 ohm resistors in the center like spokes on a wheel. I have a small Radio Shack power supply that delivers 3V to 9V in 1.5V steps, so I can vary the power from 3^2/(330/8) = 0.2W to 9^2/(330/8)=1.96W This should be enough of a range to find an optimum setting. I'll know in a couple of hours how well it works. So, in the grand old ham tradition, you have stirred me to try something new, and I am very pleased with the results. Thank you for posting the information! Best Regards, Mike Monett ex VE3CKS, VE2BLB, F7CD, VE3CWF P.S. I once got nailed by a 6146. A silver cross on a neck chain hit the cap. Silver, as you know, is a very good conductor. I stopped wearing silver crosses after that:) -- The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. Instructions for unsubscribing may be found at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: [email protected] Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
