Try this guy in Kent Town Australia.
 He has an inexpensive PPM meter that's pretty nicely made. Reasonably
accurate.
http://www.silverwell.com.au/

 Also try ebay.com.au
Ode

At 08:17 PM 12/10/2004 -5, you wrote:
>
>Welcome aboard, Adrian!
>
>You write: 
>> I make it in a 850 ml jar, with 3 x 9 volt batteries, in series, but not
>> sure what ppm it produces , Phil reckons 10ppm is best, Not having a ppm
>> meter, cannot find one in NZ.  I use two strips of 5 cm by 1 cm, by 0.2
>> mm thick. Perhaps somebody can calculate for me what ppm one gets after
>> an hour. The 1st batch went golden and was presented to a friend after 4
>> hours or so. After that one piece was blackish. The 2nd and 3rd batch
>> was an hour but has not gone golden??, nor was one piece blackish.  I
>> mainly joined to find this out.
>
>Well, you're making CS. It'll contain a lot of ions, some  particles, 
>and, depending on the purity of your water and whatever air or surface 
>contaminants found there way into the brew cell, a few salts or other 
>impurities. I am assuming you are using distilled water, of course. You 
>are, right? <grin>
>
>If so, it's already as good as most folks use, and if you do nothing 
>more you'll see nearly all the benefits anybody ever has.
>
>The golden stuff is probably greater than 10-15ppm and is starting to 
>grow bigger particles. It could easily be as high as 20-25 ppm, but you 
>can't really know without testing somehow. Still useful, but folks have 
>developed tweaks to the process to keep the particles smaller.
>
>The clear stuff is hard to tell, but you'd be better off stopping after 
>2 to 3 hours, as the process starts slowly and builds exponentially, so 
>it may have barely gotten going by one hour and may be very weak.
>
>The positive electrode, or anode, commonly turns black, either with 
>some silver compound or other, or else as a consequence of the 
>submicroscopic structure of the surface as it is being etched by the 
>electrolysis. No problem. The fact that it didn't turn black on the 
>shorter runs says the process had really not gotten going yet when you 
>turned it off.
>
>If you let it run longer, you'll get a fluffy grey coating on the 
>negative cathode that is silver being drawn out of suspension or 
>solution and ultimately being wasted. It's either some compound of 
>silver, and/or the pure metal, possibly embedded in a matrix of 
>microscopic gas bubbles.
>
>The simplest refinement you can make to your setup is to add a milliamp 
>meter in-line so you can measure the current flowing in the cell. 
>Plotting current versus time you'll get an idea when the process really 
>gets started, when the water gets saturated with ions and starts 
>growing particles, and when it starts running away.
>
>You'll develop a good idea of what current reading is the best to stop 
>at to get it where you want it. Again, it doesn't have to be precise, 
>but you will have some consistency from batch to batch.
>
>The next simplest change you can make is to put a series limiting 
>resistor in line with the cell to keep the current from exceeding, 
>maybe, a milliamp or so. 
>
>This will slow down the process a lot. It may take you overnight to 
>make a batch now, but it'll keep the particles small and the ionic 
>content as high as possible. That's how people make the stuff that 
>stays clear and has a barely perceptible Tyndall effect. Is it better? 
>Well a lot of folks believe it is. Not all, though.
>
>Beyond that, the refinements are for ease of use, greater precision, 
>and, generally, pretty optional! (Though some will disagree with me! 
><grin>)
>
>> Also does anybody know for a fact  that mixing CS with tap water is such
>> a sin? I've read this being repeated stated  but never came across any
>> decent explanation for it.
>
>Pour CS into tap water and watch closely. You may see a brief, faint 
>violet or lavendar tint, which goes away pretty quickly. That's all 
>your ionic portion agglomerating into larger particles and/or silver 
>salts. It'll still have some effectiveness, certainly, but I doubt as 
>much as before.
>
>If you take the stuff in your mouth and swish it around, it'll complex 
>with all sorts of things in your saliva that will serve to transport 
>the silver through the mucous membranes and into the blood stream. Once 
>it's in the stomach, any that reacts with HCl will be reduced in 
>availablility, but even silver chloride has some solubility and may 
>continue to contribute.
>
>I guess I think it's safer to give the body a crack at the ionic 
>portion rather than throwing it away before it even gets into you. Now 
>if you're just adding it to your pet's water dish or something, then go 
>ahead. It'll keep the water fresher and still be of some benefit to the 
>animal from the silver.
>
>> Also had toenail fungus, an oriental version, had it for 50 years, Had
>> some Silvazine - standard burn cream - mixed it with menthol in a
>> mortar, it changed radically in about 5 or so applications, so now will
>> have to wait to see whether it recovers. Had been using lamysil and
>> sporanox for years to no avail. That's a silver compound and it works
>> too.
>
>Now you should talk to some of our experts on mixing it with DMSO, 
>and... well, there's a lot to talk about! <smile>
>
>Hope that helps. Again, welcome!
>
>Be well,
>
>Mike D.
>
>[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
>[[email protected]                        ]
>[Speaking only for myself...               ]
>
>
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