http://www.spectator.co.uk/article.php3?table=old&section=current&issue=
2002-11-09&id=2462

THE SPECTATOR (UK), Saturday, November 9, 2002 FEATURES

The black hole of Europe

Andrew Sutton on the miseries, corruption and human-rights abuses in
Kosovo, 
the UN's first-ever protectorate - Pristina

I reached what remained of the fire-ravaged train just as the downpour 
started. Inside, two burly Kosovar Albanian railwaymen in orange boiler 
suits sat on a twisted iron spar, smoking and sheltering from the
weather. 
Before the war, this train took Serb men from their village to the
quarry 
where they mined for coal. Then, one day, KLA fighters prised away a
section 
of track near the northern town of Vushtrri, sending the train down an 
embankment. The workers survived the wreck, but snipers lay in wait.
'Some 
of them escaped,' one of the railwaymen said, and swore obscenely.

Such are the levels of seething hatred still present in Kosovo. When the

United Nations arrived in 1999, it took on a province ravaged by
Milosevic's 
forces, and with an infrastructure bombed to rubble. The job was never
going 
to be easy, and, recognising that more was required than the usual 
complement of peacekeepers, advisers and itinerant statesmen, the UN
took a 
momentous step: Kosovo became its first-ever protectorate, a nation
adopted 
by 185 parents.

Three years on, it is hard to find anyone, either local or
'international', 
in this wretched province who has a good word to say about the
organisation. 
And it is not just the well-documented corruption and bungling that have
led 
some of Kosovo's graffiti-writers to daub anti-UN slogans where once
they 
scrawled fulsome thanks. Many of the province's sorrows result from 
deliberate policies of the United Nations Mission in Kosovo (Unmik); 
policies designed by technocrats for politicians.

Take an alarming example from the Unmik police. The 49-nation force was 
cobbled together to show the locals how it's done, but the trouble is,
not 
all the boys in blue berets seem to know how it's done themselves.

'You have people coming from some countries who don't know what it means
to 
really police. They haven't done it themselves. They get here and they
pass 
the testing,' said one officer, who asked not to be named. 'Very few
people 
are rejected, very few.' Never mind that some of these policemen have
never 
driven in their jobs before, or have never worked in a city, or barely
speak 
English (let alone Albanian). It would be politically inconvenient to
set 
the standard too high - what if people were to start failing to reach
it? 
Worse, what if it turned out that some countries' police are better
trained 
than others? In the minds of the UN functionaries who set the rules,
these 
perils are terrifying. If in doubt, give the officer his gun and hope
for 
the best.

This policy has had consequences: recently a six-year-old girl and her
older 
brother were killed here, knocked down by a Ghanaian policeman who lost 
control while driving his high-powered police car at more than twice the

speed limit. A short walk from Pristina's tiny airport, there is a
chilling 
sight. Behind a thin chain-link fence, row upon row of wrecked
red-and-white 
Toyotas bear tragic witness to the fact that such accidents are not
rare.

The car lot is only one of the many dirty secrets created by Unmik's
love of 
policy that is made for show. Last month the BBC Radio Four programme
Face 
the Facts reported on the unexploded ordnance that still litters parts
of 
Kosovo. The UN established a new acronym, staffed it with bureaucrats
and 
decided that the province would be safe by 31 December 2001. Sure
enough, 
when that day came, experts from all mine-clearance charities were
ordered 
to stop work, and the UN declared the land 'pristine'. It was a
convenient 
lie, and it has ensured civilian deaths for many years to come.

Kosovo was meant to be a showcase of the world's governments working 
together as equals to sow peace and goodwill, but the view from the
ground 
is very different. The Kosovo people have long harboured a suspicion
that 
Unmik is not here to help them, but to serve the UN's own political 
imperatives. Stick together at all costs, Unmik's motto became, whether
it's 
working or not. That fatal car went, presumably, to Unmik's mechanical 
graveyard. The driver was released after two weeks in custody.

Migjen Kelmendi, a respected Kosovar intellectual turned newspaper
editor, 
concedes that many locals still hold unrealistic expectations of Unmik,
but 
he pleads for the officials to come down from 'their towers'. 'We have
never 
lived in a democracy - we don't know how it looks. We need an
interpreter to 
tell us how it looks in a normal Western country,' he says.

But this is a very distorted vision of what a Western country should
look 
like. Three years after the UN set up shop here, unemployment stands at
57 
per cent and corruption is rife. Last month the head of Kosovo's 
'Ombudsperson' institution, Marek Antoni Nowicki, warned of a
human-rights 
'black hole' opening up in Europe's backyard. In private, his deputy,
Donna 
Gomien, accuses the UN of indifference towards human-rights abuses 
perpetrated by its own staff; of effectively allowing personnel accused
of 
brutality to shield behind a wall of official silence. Cases are dealt
with 
as internal disciplinary matters, names are not divulged, and any 
disciplinary action that is taken remains secret, even from the
Ombudsperson 
whose role it is to monitor abuses of authority.

'We have people coming in here saying, "I got beaten up by this guy from

Oklahoma who kept saying, 'I'm immune, I'm immune, you can't do anything
to 
me,' while he was breaking his teeth and his ribs,"' says Ms Gomien.
While 
cases such as that are rare, no provision for redress exists for the
victims 
of any Unmik or Nato agency or agent. 'These people have nothing and
they're 
told, "Sure you can have civil restitution - go to Ohio or Islamabad, 
jurisdiction rests there now, and, by the way, have you found an 
Urdu-speaking lawyer?"'

There are, of course, many dedicated and competent people within Unmik
and 
numerous other agencies and charities which are working hard for a
better 
Kosovo. People who travel thousands of miles from their families to a
land 
of power-cuts and water shortages. Their efforts - and, of course, those
of 
the Kosovo people - are helping to put the province back on its feet.
But 
the lure of an 'international' salary, which can exceed that of a US 
senator, ensures that many people come here for the wrong motives. Those
who 
are trying to build a better Kosovo often find themselves hindered at
every 
turn by Unmik's perverse bureaucratic practices. 'UN volunteers are the 
hardest workers ...they are young, exuberant people who really want to
make 
a difference, so they are always working hard,' says Eleanor Beardsley,
a 
press officer. They are often assigned the grimmest and most dangerous
jobs, 
such as working in a morgue at constant risk of HIV infection. But
Unmik's 
best people can never be promoted because they are not allowed to
compete 
for jobs held by a salaried official.

Migjen Kelmendi sums up the situation perfectly: 'We really need 
participation and help of the international community, [but] it looks as
if 
they are bunkering themselves within their own reality. They are
starting to 
create a castle of their own.' Unlike the deaths of the Serb workers,
the 
fate of Kosovar people injured or killed by reckless police, uncleared
mines 
or an enraged soldier is the result not of bloody vengeance, but of the 
studied indifference of bureaucrats who refuse to see past their own
utopian 
'realities'. The UN has amply demonstrated that you do not need to pay 
peanuts to get the three monkeys.


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