http://www.burlingtonpost.com/article/full/fullview/1QT4C-41
Yugoslavian wine creates pleasant surprise
Alex Eberspaecher, Wine Cellar
Sep. 28, 2001
Forgive my ignorance, but I thought there was no longer a Yugoslavia.
Every map at my disposal indicates that the "former" Yugoslavia now consists of Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia and whatever became independent after the recent turmoil. Yet, I have found some pretty remarkable wines from Yugoslavia at my local wine store.
Navip of Belgrade has long been an established name in the wine industry, but I don't remember the wines being as good as the ones I have just tasted.
It was by chance, if not curiosity, that I selected a white 1998 Muscat Ottonel to accompany some light dishes recently. Now a Muscat Ottonel is not as widely known as a Chardonnay or even a Riesling, but if you have ever been in the Alsace, you probably have seen it, often blended with other white wines.
The Muscat Ottonel is a true Muscat, perhaps the palest of the Muscat variety, not only in colour, but also in aroma. Yet, I found this Yugoslavian wine quite fruity and balanced.
What really impressed me, though, was the smoothness of the wine.
Not overly dry, it is certainly not a sweet wine, just pleasant to drink without a mouth puckering acidity and dryness.
Neither does one need a degree to match this wine with food. I would serve it with most of the lighter meat dishes, be it white or red meat, and most certainly with fish, although perhaps there is not enough acidity in this wine to accompany shellfish. It matched a rather spicy Jambalaya very well without being overpowered.
The Muscat Ottonel is not in the same league as a great German Riesling or an Alsatian Gewürztraminer, but then again, when it comes to value, it is in a league of its own.
If you are looking for a very nice and pleasant sipping wine, take a look at the Muscat Ottonel from Navip, CSPC 542597 for $6.95.
When you find a good white wine, a good red should not be too far away.
Here again, the Navip winery came through with a big surprise. The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is much better than one would expect from that part of the world.
I have no idea how they managed to produce a relatively intensive Cabernet to be that smooth and drinkable in less than three years and still have enough fruit left to compete with wines priced much higher.
Not as complex as a high-priced French Cab and perhaps not as fruity as a Chilean, this reasonably priced Navip Cabernet could easily become a regular house wine with many of my readers.
The Navip 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is also a regularly listed wine under CSPC 565887 for $6.95.
Just think about it, for less than $14, you purchase two bottles of good wine. And that surely is a bargain, no matter what country you are looking at.
