[2 articles]

Film explores surfers' choices during Vietnam War

http://www3.signonsandiego.com/stories/2009/mar/28/1s28outdoors23916-film-explores-surfers-choices-du/

By Ed Zieralski, Union-Tribune Staff Writer
March 28, 2009

They were two surfers in the prime of their wave-riding years when 
the Vietnam War wiped out their dreams.

One of them, Pat Farley of Santa Cruz, volunteered for service in 
1968 and became an Army Ranger. For Farley, the hell that was Vietnam 
was way too close, became way too personal.

The other surfer, Brant Page, a former San Diegan, joined more than 
half a million young American men who said, "Hell no, we won't go." 
They called them draft dodgers. Page didn't care. Like Muhammad Ali, 
who said, "I got nothing against no Viet Cong," Page evaded the 
Vietnam War draft and escaped to paradise. He went to Hawaii, where 
he camped, moved often to avoid the FBI, lived off the land, swam in 
rivers and surfed the blue Pacific. He looked like a real-life Tarzan.

In their thought-provoking and award-winning documentary, "Between 
The Lines," director and producer Ty Ponder, writer and co-director 
Scott Bass and director of photography Troy Page, who is Brant's son, 
explore how the Vietnam War affected the West Coast's surfing culture.

More specifically, the film weaves together these two surfer's 
opposite takes on that contentious war into a wave-cresting, 
emotional finish that won't be spoiled for potential viewers here.

"There are two sides to the story," said Ponder, a San Diegan and a 
commercial pilot. "Our goal was to tell a balanced story and honor 
veterans. Very few veterans see this as an anti-war film."

"Between The Lines" opens with narrator John Milius of "Apocalypse 
Now" and "Big Wednesday" fame setting the tone: "Soldiers and 
surfers. Two identities, seemingly opposite. But when the concepts 
collide, as they did during the Vietnam War, and surfers are told to 
become soldiers, choices have to be made."

 From there the film splashes across the screen like sets of waves, 
switching back and forth from Vietnam for Farley and to the Hawaiian 
Islands for Page. The soundtrack's two original songs, including the 
title track, "Between The Lines," by Chuck Ragan, are perfect matches 
for '60s tunes from Steppenwolf and others.

Background is given about the early lives of Farley and Page. The 
film shows how the United States became more and more involved in 
Vietnam, all leading to the 1965 mandatory draft.

By the war's end, more than 58,000 Americans were killed, 10 percent 
of them from California.

There is real, raw footage of firefights in the jungles of Vietnam 
mixed, bizarre as it seems, with surfing adventures at places like 
China Beach. Army lifeguards such as Greg Samp patrolled the beach at 
those spots, and Ponder said he was a tremendous resource for the film.

Is it gnarly? Definitely.

Is it politically correct? Hardly.

Nothing is overlooked, certainly not the protests that erupted in the 
United States over the war.

There are emotional interviews with surfers who fought and those who 
didn't. One of them, Army artilleryman Howard Fisher of Julian, 
fought and was critically wounded, his jaw severed. He earned a 
Purple Heart, but he recalls how no hero's welcome awaited him when 
he returned to the U.S. No one asked to see his medal. No one offered 
to buy him dinner.

Fisher has seen the film several times and praised it, calling it 
"intellectually stimulating." Even though he fought like Farley, he 
has no ill feelings for the dissenter, Page.

"Being part of it, I have a sense of honor," Fisher said. "I relate 
to them both and respect them both. Both should be praised for who 
they are. The collective burden of the Vietnam War on our generation 
was huge. This generation today is facing the same issues. It makes 
sense to have both sides. This is America. Brant doesn't look as 
patriotic as Pat, but I respect him with all my heart. He had a pure 
heart. He stole the movie."

As the documentary closes, we are asked, by Rick Thomas of the Navy's 
River Assault Group, who showed courage? Was it the man who fought or 
the man who dissented.

"Between The Lines" by Pure Frustration Productions is set for its 
premier and benefit showing tonight in Santa Cruz. On April 18 it 
will show at a benefit for the California Surf Museum in Oceanside. 
The DVD is available now and will be in most surf shops next week. Go 
to betweenthelinesfilm.com for more information.
--

Ed Zieralski: (619) 293-1225; [email protected]

--------

Surfing Vietnam

http://www.gtweekly.com/20090318387055/good-times/covers/surfing-vietnam

Written by Linda Koffman
Wednesday, 18 March 2009

Local vet Pat Farley sheds light on the untold story of surfers during the war

I am a product of the Vietnam War. Though I've jokingly said that for 
years, it is true. During the war my mother was a Vietnamese civilian 
working as a translator for the United States Army in Saigon, where 
my father was stationed as an American helicopter pilot in the Navy. 
They met there. Just as the North Vietnamese were taking over Saigon 
on April 29, 1975, my mother fled Vietnam aboard a refugee boat 
amidst the historical chaos. My father was also on the coast, 
hovering overhead while commandeering his final mission in Vietnam. 
They were separated but four months later, my mother would ultimately 
relocate to San Diego where they reunited and eventually married.

That said, I never grew up with any grand intensity surrounding the 
circumstances of my parents' past, despite what most people I 
encounter expect. It was never really mentioned that much when I was 
growing up and it has always been a pragmatic detail rather than a 
television movie-of-the-week conversation.

The war, my father's experiences in it, my mother's turbulent plight 
to leave it behind, and the dichotomy that my nuclear family 
symbolized, were neither taboo nor venerated. They simply were.

So, it surprised me when I happened to catch up with history, right 
here in Santa Cruz, far from Saigon and such tumultuous family 
beginnings. I recently came face to face with the Vietnam War in an 
unlikely place­a local surf shop.

There it was, looking straight at me in the form of a pinned-up movie 
flier for Between the Lines, a new documentary premiering this month 
to benefit the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum. The film examines the 
Vietnam War and … surfers? It seems unreal that the two topics could 
find a meeting ground. Sure, most of us are familiar with the 
notorious surf exploits in Apocalypse Now and the classic 
coming-of-age story in Big Wednesday­even Platoon had a 
surfer-soldier. A scene here or there I can understand, but an entire 
movie that combines both so prominently had me intrigued, to say the least.

Raw and unorthodox, as it turns out, Between the Lines confronts the 
Vietnam War's influence on the specific demographic of surfers at the 
time by looking back on two surfers' opposite reactions to the draft. 
Indeed, it is striking, but it still begs the question: Why surfers?

Incoming Swell

With 1959's Gidget having just served as the Big Bang for the surf 
culture, the Vietnam War was a juggernaut in the middle of all the 
thriving Beach Blanket revelry, with the draft age­18-26­ 
encompassing a significant portion of surfers by the late 1960s. 
Fifteen percent of Americans that served in Vietnam were from 
California, and 10 percent of approximately 58,000 Americans who died 
in the Vietnam War hailed from the state that doubled as a surf 
epicenter, more than any other in the country. Such statistics are 
what led Apocalypse Now screenwriter and Big Wednesday director John 
Milius, who narrates Between the Lines, to have famously labeled the 
longest war in U.S. history "the California War." Finally, it was 
customary for a California soldier in Vietnam to be greeted with "Are 
you a surfer?"

It was also an era of powerful rebellion and change, as the anti-war 
Cultural Revolution in America coincided with the shortboard 
revolution, and each was brimming out of the Golden State.

"There's a reason why so many war movies have a surfer in it," says 
Ty Ponder, producer and director of Between the Lines. "It was an 
untold story about the Vietnam War that was ready to be told. We 
don't take away, by any means, from the rest of the men across the 
country that served. This is just our take on it," he adds, 
referencing his partners Scott Bass (director/writer) and Troy Page 
(director of photography).

He says he and the filmmakers contend "that surfers are a little 
different when it comes to these choices. Exploring and surfing is a 
life for them, and they aren't necessarily nurtured in that culture 
where answering-the-call is the thing to do."

Despite culling vintage footage and photographs of 
surfers-turned-soldiers transplanting their surf culture to Vietnam 
in some rare and remarkable surf scenes, at places like the 
illustrious China Beach, Between the Lines is not a surf film. It's a 
war documentary that compares two young surfers, their divergent 
paths, and the one choice so many had to make. It is, to say the least, heavy.

"It might be true that there aren't bitchin' waves to watch [in the 
film], but if you're interested in that era of surfing, you're going 
to be fascinated," Ponder says. "And if you're a surfer, it is an 
important part of your history. The Vietnam War redirected our 
culture during very radical times."

The movie chronicles the hunted­the surfer who avoided the war and 
its draft by chasing waves in Hawaii and hiding from the FBI, and the 
haunted­the surfer who left behind his home break and went to war, 
only to, in his own words, "become the war."

As the 18-year-old from Santa Cruz who found himself entangled in the 
jungles of Vietnam during 1968-1970, Pat Farley is the latter. I 
sought out the local veteran to further uncover the movie­and the 
war­through his eyes.

I thought this story would be easy to write, but I was wrong.

About Face

When Pat Farley visited his mother on her deathbed last September, 
she warned him that if he didn't return to a religious life as a 
Catholic he was going to go to hell.

Farley's incensed response was as dark as the circumstance at hand. 
"You don't understand, I've already been there," he told her. "I've 
seen hell at its finest." Then he walked out of the room.

When Farley talks about Vietnam, he's brutally honest. The 
59-year-old, retired and receiving a pension from the government for 
Post Traumatic Stress Disorder, doesn't shy away from unleashing the 
realities of war and his own actions in it as a highly decorated U.S. 
Army Ranger. He is straightforward, assertive, unabashed. He's not 
about to hide his truths from anyone at any time, whether you agree 
with him or not­and if you're looking for PC, look elsewhere.

I first discovered this in the movie, as his words jutted out like a 
shard of glass hurling from the screen. In what is one of the most 
difficult scenes in Between the Lines, Farley recalls some of his 
most trying combat memories and states, "By the end of the war, I 
wanted to kill … I killed men, women and children and I've got no 
remorse about any of them."

My stomach instantly contorted into knots. My breathing momentarily 
ceased. Had my story met its end before I'd even started it? I didn't 
think I could meet Farley for an interview. Did I want to? What 
happened to the usual protocol of tearful lament most commonly 
associated with a veteran's accounts? Now I was the one incensed. 
Those "men, women and children," in my mind, could have been my 
family­at least that's how I instinctively feel when watching 
footage, real or fictional, of Vietnamese civilians during the war.

I just couldn't understand. But, as I would later learn, that is 
exactly the point Farley wants to make.

On the Inside

Sitting on the front deck of his fenced-off yard lined with 
surfboards and tall greenery, sun glinting through the clouds as 
signs of approaching rain crowd the Santa Cruz sky on a winter 
afternoon, Farley cracks open an old-fashioned, 8-ounce glass bottle 
of Classic Coca-Cola. We sit down for a chat that's been arranged 
around his daily surf sessions.

"When I did the movie I figured I'd give the shell-shock factor: This 
is what war is," Farley says. "People have an idea that going off to 
war is like a John Wayne movie or what you see in the video games, 
and that you walk out of there and life is still the same. No. You're 
going to make choices in a combat situation that will follow you for 
the rest of your life, and they are going to change your life. You're 
not coming back the same way. People need to hear it raw."

Still living by the Santa Cruz river-mouth, the same spot he loyally 
surfed as a teen, Farley possesses a bright, welcoming energy. His 
résumé since the war includes stints as a writer ("Surfing to 
Saigon"), filmmaker, surf shop owner and surfboard shaper. He's open 
and rambunctious, his blond curls a perfect fit for a bouncy 
disposition that serves as a precursor to his outspoken nature 
regarding Vietnam. He is, to put it simply, a very nice and jovial 
guy. But get him started about the war, and it is obvious that there 
lies an abyss of agitated anger beneath the surface.

"It wasn't so much the Vietnamese, I was at war with everybody," 
Farley explains, when asked about his abrasive commentary in the 
film. "That's what war does to people. You don't know what it's like 
until you've actually seen somebody in a tragic mess, where their 
leg's flying here, their guts are hanging out there, and they're 
still conscious with blood squirting all over the place while they're 
just screaming bloody murder."

And though he does admit a nervousness about offending people­like 
he'd offended me­and makes an effort to caution his Vietnamese 
friends about his language in his own writings and in the film, he is 
unyielding in his defense that saying the words "gook" and "fuck" go 
hand in hand with honestly conveying his experiences during the war. 
When asked to tone down his language for Between the Lines by its 
filmmakers, Farley replied that he'd try­but only so much. "If you 
want me to go into that mode, well, this was the way I was," he says. 
"As soon as I start going into Vietnam, this is the language I talk. 
War is a bloody hell … Hopefully the movie is powerful enough to get 
somebody to think twice about going to war."

Forward March

When an 18-year-old Pat Farley first arrived in Vietnam, he kept 
hoping it was "all just a bad acid trip." Despite wanting nothing 
else in life but to surf, he had volunteered for the army to get away 
from his poor Irish Catholic, alcoholic family. "I didn't want to run 
from the FBI, I didn't want to go to jail, I didn't want to go to 
school, I just wanted to surf," he explains his logic at the time. 
"So I wanted to get [the war] over with and then have the government 
pay for my schooling."

As a result, he found himself outside of Saigon, entrenched in the 
jungles of the southernmost part of a foreign country he knew nothing 
about. What he did know, was that he had never been so scared in his life.

"In the beginning, I cried myself asleep at night," he remembers. "A 
few times I was so scared that I wet my pants because the shit just 
hit the fan."

On the morning of his third day, after experiencing an ambush, he 
went into shock. He was then set under a tree by his fellow soldiers, 
a tarp was laid over his head, and he sat. And sat.

"The guys in my unit took me into a little base camp they had set up, 
set me under a tree, and for a whole week I was bye-bye," Farley 
says. That was his first case of shell shock. He would continue to 
function but endure blackouts up until two years after he was out of 
the service, at one point finding himself standing in front of a Taco 
Bell in San Francisco when he last remembered being in Santa Cruz.

After six months in Vietnam, Farley says things changed and he 
snapped. He was no longer scared; he wanted to fight. "Everywhere was 
the war for me," he begins, "I didn't care and I didn't think about 
consequences anymore. That is what happens in war."

For the two years he would live in Vietnam, the avid surfer, used to 
spending his days hanging ten on his longboard, would never see the 
coastline. He would find sanctuary dreaming about the ocean and 
drawing sketches­always of the same image: a guy squatting and 
hanging ten on a peeling wave. Meanwhile, unbeknownst to him, the 
shortboard was coming into its own back home. He recalls first 
learning about the new era in surfing:

"When I was in Vietnam a guy asked me, 'What size board do you got?' 
and I told him I had a nine-foot, six-inch board. Then somebody said, 
'Yeah, my friends are riding seven-foot boards and they don't hang 
ten anymore.' I was just going, 'What do you mean you don't hang ten 
anymore­how can you surf if you don't hang ten?' That transition went 
full stream while I was in the service."

Provoking even more yearning, he would hear of other soldiers surfing 
in Vietnam at places like Vung Tau and Cam Ranh Bay, where there were 
surfboards available for momentary, albeit surreal, escapes from the 
surrounding war. Farley would never be afforded such blissful 
indulgences. Upon mention of Between the Lines' images proving that 
soldiers did, indeed, surf in Vietnam, Farley laughs in amazement.

"What war were they in?" he quips. "It would have been a treat to 
spend a war like that. I might not have come back!" He then adds, "I 
guess I had to work off some karma."

Karma or not, Farley's path was one of staying alive under the 
harshest of conditions. And it's a feat he attributes partly to being 
a surfer. "I think surfers are a certain breed," he contends. 
"They're in tune with nature and they put themselves in these 
precarious situations that put their lives on the line. They want 
that wave and whatever it takes to get that wave. I transferred that 
over to war."

Sadly, even after the war, he would continue hiding out. Farley left 
Vietnam in 1970, when the anti-war movement was in full swing at 
home. He, like many, would experience the public taunting and 
disrespect that have since become notorious for the time. In order to 
travel Military Standby, the 20-year-old had to fly in uniform. Aware 
of the hostility surrounding him, he would wait until the last minute 
to change into his appropriate attire in the airport­hoping to remain 
discreet and avoid any harassment.

"As soon as the boarding started I'd jump into the bathroom and put 
on my military uniform, and then wait there and run for the plane," 
he recounts. "Even while running, people were cutting loose on you. 
It was just nasty."

The distress extended into Santa Cruz. Alienated by friends that felt 
he'd gone crazy, and in disagreement with a family that urged him to 
continue a career in the military but didn't want to hear about 
Vietnam, Farley began living in his Volkswagen van. He would sleep at 
Steamer Lane and Four Mile, catnap in the day to steer clear of 
people, and surf at night, living a reclusive life. He tried to cash 
in on that government-paid schooling he'd planned for, but couldn't 
endure being around others in the classroom. It would take almost 
three years for him to fully assimilate back into Santa Cruz society.

Farley's only refuge at the time was surfing.

To this day, his first lonesome session upon returning from Vietnam 
remains a vivid memory: It was his second morning home, before 
sunrise, and he would finally hit the cold June water of Indicators 
atop a longboard­no light, no one and no war in sight.

"I didn't have a weapon anymore, I was knee paddling, sitting on my 
board and just watching the sun come up with nobody around," he says. 
"I remember catching a couple waves, gliding around, and just 
thinking, 'Oh my God, I'm still able to surf.'"
Last Stand

A few years ago I was adamant about pushing the subject of the 
Vietnam War with my mom, in order to finally get a straight answer 
from her about her stance regarding the conflict­probably in an 
attempt to find a final answer from myself. After all, it's easy for 
other people to say "we shouldn't have been there," but seeing that 
my family feared the Viet Cong and fled for a reason, it has never 
been such a quick statement on my part.

So, I asked her plainly, now, looking back, which side did she feel 
was right­the Communists whose presence forced my family to migrate 
south from their original home in North Vietnam, or the Americans 
opposing them?

Her response still resonates.

In the simplest yet most striking of terms, my mother said, with 
quiet conviction, "In the day we were afraid of the Americans, and at 
night we were afraid of the Viet Cong. It was just so sad for the 
poor people."

Like her response, the Vietnam War never did seem to offer the 
answers anyone was looking for or expected. And whether it was a 
civilian like my mother or a soldier like Pat Farley, a draft evader, 
protestor or traditional patriot, each has a story. In order to learn 
from them, it's important to ask what that story honestly is.

And, most importantly, to listen­even when it hurts.
--

Between the Lines screens at 7 p.m. Saturday, March 28 at The Rio 
Theatre, 1205 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz. Tickets cost a $10 donation to 
benefit the Surfing Museum, and can be purchased at Zen Trading 
Company or O'Neill Surf Shop. For more information, visit 
BetweentheLinesFilm.com . For more information on Pat Farley, visit 
SurfingtoSaigon.com .

.


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