Big Sur, California: Coastal adventure on Highway 1 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/northamerica/usa/californiaandsouthwest/6105190/Big-Sur-California-Coastal-adventure-on-Highway-1.html
Gabriella Le Breton follows Highway 1 along a spectacular stretch of Californian coastline to a magical enclave of Sixties America. By Gabriella Le Breton 30 Aug 2009 Big Sur. The name alone is evocative, and not just because it, like much of California, was ravaged by forest fires this month (the fires are now all contained). No, conflagrations apart, there's something magical, mythical, about this 90-mile tract of Californian coast, a byword for a pristine, clean-aired medley of maritime landscapes; white-sand coves and craggy, precipitous cliffs that fall into the crashing Pacific from the soaring Santa Lucia mountains and dense Ventana wilderness beyond them. It's not just the ruggedly beautiful landscapes that account for the region's allure, but also Big Sur's stretch of Highway 1, one of America's great drives. Built by prison labour over 20 years, it clings to the mountains, twisting and turning, dropping to sea level before soaring over 1,000ft, edged by cypress and Monterey pines and vibrant with wild sage, lavender and thyme, orange California poppies, red Indian Paintbrush and plumes of purple, blue and lavender lupins… the sort of highway that needs to be driven in a red Mustang. Big Sur has achieved iconic status not only for its spectacular natural beauty but for its cultural and spiritual identity. Although the completion of the highway in 1937 ensured it was no longer isolated (San Francisco is three hours to the north, Los Angeles five hours to the south), Big Sur still feels like a bohemian enclave, secluded from the real world. The novelist and painter Henry Miller, who visited in 1944 and stayed for 18 years, referred to it as "my Easter Island", and said: "There being nothing to improve on in the surroundings, the tendency is to set about improving oneself." This desire for self-improvement was encouraged by the opening of three pioneering retreat centres in Big Sur: the New Camaldoli Benedictine hermitage (in 1958), the Esalen Institute (1962) and the Tassajara Zen Mountain Centre (1966). The combination of beautiful surroundings, spiritual enlightenment, meditation and inspiration proved an instant hit with film stars, artists, musicians, travellers and hippies, all of whom have flocked to Big Sur ever since. The Esalen Institute remains popular. Since its inception, it has operated a strict regime of privacy for guests, permitting entry to non-residents between 1am and 3am to use the natural hot springs (clothing optional). As you contemplate the stars from your watery perch, 500ft above the ocean, it's hard not to be struck by the thought that Hunter S Thompson, Jack Kerouac, Bob Dylan and Joan Baez have all soaked here before you. Locals passionately uphold the traditions and spirit of Big Sur and residents have fought for decades to prevent excessive development. The result is not just a town of diminutive size and pristine surroundings, but also the sense that it's a freeze-frame of Sixties America. It encapsulates that period's political awareness and enthusiasm, its free-spirited and creative nature, nascent environmentalism and old Hollywood glamour. Big Sur's appeal is universal, attracting nostalgic Americans and curious foreigners; romantic young lovers and older couples; young travellers looking for a taste of the hippy lifestyle; nature lovers; artists, photographers and writers searching for the clarity and inspiration that so many before them have discovered in this unique blend of ocean, mountains, seclusion, creativity and spiritualism. Whether you want to soak in hot springs, improve yourself, follow in bohemian footsteps, hike the forests or simply drive through some of the continent's most majestic scenery with fabulous places to stay and eat en route Big Sur has few rivals. Here are my tips for making the most of your trip. THE TOWN Big Sur incorporates miles of the Californian coastline and interior, including four state parks, yet the heart of its "urbanised" area is delightfully compact. Clustered in the Big Sur River valley, where Highway 1 leaves the coast and dives into a redwood forest, the "town" comprises a smattering of hotels and restaurants, a bakery, Spirit Garden, several art galleries, a couple of petrol stations, the post office and the Henry Miller Library. WHERE TO STAY POST RANCH INN (001 831 667 2200; www.postranchinn.com; from $550/£337 per night). Deservedly rated as one of California's finest hotels, the sublime Post Ranch Inn is set in 100 acres of what was formerly the Post family ranch. Accessed by a mile-long drive, the 40 guestrooms, spa, gourmet restaurant and library are housed in individual buildings perched on cliffs high above the Pacific. The architect's intention was that guests should feel "part of nature, not merely observers of it", so tree houses, wild-flower-covered half domes, circular and butterfly-shaped buildings constructed from natural materials dot the cliffs. Cars are left at reception to ensure total peace. Most rooms offer uninterrupted ocean views from spacious balconies and all feature original art and sculpture, an open fire, palatial bedrooms and bathrooms and a complimentary mini bar. There are two infinity spa pools and a large swimming pool, and the hotel even produces its own bottled water on-site. If you can bear to leave your private balcony or pool, a number of complimentary activities are offered, such as morning yoga, guided nature walks and cooking classes with the executive chef. DEETJEN'S BIG SUR INN (667 0466; www.deetjens.com; from $80/£49 per night). Helmuth Deetjen, or Grandpa Deetjen as he became known, was on the run from the authorities in his native Norway when he came to Big Sur in the Thirties. Hunkering down in the densely wooded Castro Canyon, he constructed a small barn from the surrounding redwoods and settled there with his wife. The couple offered passers-by dinner and a bed in their cabin and, as word spread, built more cabins, becoming Big Sur's first hotel in the process. Grandpa passed away in 1972, but the inn and its hotch-potch collection of wisteria, rose and maple-festooned cabins continues his legacy of quirky, informal hospitality. The bedrooms are impossibly romantic. Many come with an open fire; all come with comfortable beds, books and antiques. None comes with a lock. Each room has its own journal, in which guests are encouraged to write about their stay. The journals stay in the room some date from the Seventies. Grandpa wasn't big on bathrooms, which remain basic, and wood cabins aren't strong on soundproofing, so if you're sensitive to noise, try to book the only stand-alone cabin. VENTANA INN & SPA (667 0573; www.ventanainn.com; b&b from $500/£306). The Ventana is a 60-room property set in 243 acres of land and built by the writer Lawrence Spector in 1975 with the money he earned from the film Easy Rider. Spector's Hollywood friends loved to stay here, delighting in the ocean and mountain views, discrete service and secluded location. The hotel has a spa, two swimming pools, two hot tubs and a sauna, an extensive library and fine-dining restaurant. Accommodation ranges from tastefully designed bedrooms to spacious villas and the stand-alone cottage and Sur House. Guests can take advantage of daily guided nature walks, yoga classes and wine and cheese receptions. Eating out NEPENTHE (667 2345; www.nepenthebigsur.com). The Nepenthe restaurant and bar, perched on a cliff high above the Pacific, was immortalised in the 1965 Hollywood film The Sandpiper. Little has changed since then, it has balconies with superb sea views, lunch and dinner are informal and the dishes are simple American classics. Also here are the Café Kevah and Phoenix shop, a cavernous emporium of unusual jewellery, books, textiles, ceramics, art and clothing. DEETJEN'S BIG SUR INN (667 0466; www.deetjens.com). Deetjen's restaurant is spread across four cosy, low-ceilinged interconnected rooms in the original rose-decked redwood barn. Fresh flowers adorn each table. Breakfast has long been an institution but chef Domingo Santamaria has breathed new life into the dinner menu. SIERRA MAR (667 2800; www.postranchinn.com). The Sierra Mar restaurant in Post Ranch Inn perches almost precariously over a cliff edge, affording uninterrupted ocean views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Sunsets here are unmissable. Dinner is a four-course, prix-fixe menu that changes daily à la carte is available) and showcases the exceptional talents of Craig von Foerster, the executive chef. The wine list is one of the most extensive in North America (14,000 bottles). BIG SUR BAKERY & RESTAURANT (667 0520; www.bigsurbakery.com ). The quiet, shaded garden at the back of the bakery is the perfect spot for lunch (or breakfast) of home-made quiches, pies, bread, soups and salads. Finish off your meal with a freshly baked, irresistible cookie or vast slab of homemade cake. The restaurant also serves informal dinners of wood-fired pizzas and hearty, wood-grilled and roasted fish and meat dishes. WHAT TO DO The area offers a wealth of activities, including fishing swimming, camping, climbing, stargazing, surfing and whale-watching. Below are 10 tips for making the most of Big Sur. 1 Visit the Henry Miller Memorial Library, also a bookshop with painting, poetry and writing workshops, old films in the garden and regular concerts. 2 Kick back in resident artist Jason's "tree nests" in the Spirit Garden with one of the Big Sur Bakery's cookies. 3 Take a dip in the Esalen Institute hot springs. 4 Take a nature walk with Greg Ambrosia of Big Sur Guides (594 1742; www.bigsurguides.com). Do it privately or drop by the Ventana Inn at 10am every day for a free guided walk. 5 Have chips and a margarita on the Nepenthe terrace. 6 Watch the surfers from Pfeiffer Beach, with condors circling overhead. 7 Visit Hawthorne Gallery (667 3200; www.hawthorne gallery.com), an extensive collection of art and sculpture from the Hawthorne family and international artists. 8 Watch the sun set from the spa pools or Sierra Mar restaurant at Post Ranch Inn. 9 Best walks: the 10-mile Old Coast Road trail to Bixby Bridge; the stroll to McWay Falls; the two-mile hike through Creamery Meadow to Molera Beach or eight-mile Molera Loop (Andrew Molera State Park); and three-mile Oak Grove trail or eight-mile Mount Manuel trail (Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park). 10 Go in April for wildflowers and whales, and September and October for autumnal foliage, but avoid "grey May", "June gloom" and peak tourist season in high summer. GETTING THERE North American Highways (01902 851138; www.nahighways.co.uk) offers a 13-day self-drive itinerary travelling along the coast from San Francisco to Los Angeles, spending two nights in Carmel (30 minutes north of Big Sur). Prices start at approximately £1,600 for flights, car hire and accommodation in three-star-quality properties, but bespoke itineraries can be arranged to provide accommodation in Big Sur and its different hotels. . --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Sixties-L" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/sixties-l?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
