[3 articles]

Former commune is site of archaeological dig

http://www.allbusiness.com/science-technology/anthropology-archaeology/12851130-1.html

By By SUSAN FERRISS
Publication: Monterey County Herald (California)
September 8 2009

NOVATO  - The '60s aren't dead. They're in an archaeological site 
north of San Francisco.

An old commune where the Grateful Dead and other bands used to romp 
is being excavated and items catalogued by state park archaeologists 
at Olompali State Historic Park.

Among the artifacts: the classic hippie beads, a marijuana "roach 
clip," fragments of tie-dyed clothes and a reel-to-reel tape a Marin 
County studio technician has promised to try to restore.

They are the stuff of memories for Noelle Olompali-Barton, who was 16 
when she and her showbiz mom plunged into California's new 
counterculture, retreating to this once-private ranch north of San 
Francisco to establish one of the first hippie communes.

The teenager baked bread to give away in Golden Gate Park. She sat 
with the Grateful Dead under an oak tree for a famous 1969 album photo.

For two intense, often drug-laced years, the commune nourished 
utopian dreams and some bad trips, too, she said.

But never in her wildest hallucinations did the teen imagine that 
more than 40 years later, she would assist an archaeologist in 
identifying macrame headbands, old records and other commune 
artifacts retrieved from the abandoned ruins of her former home.

"You know you're old when you're pictured in Archaeology magazine," 
chuckled Olompali-Barton, now 58, who was profiled in that journal in 
July along with California State Parks archaeologist E. Breck Parkman.

Sitting under oaks outside the park's visitor center, Parkman laughed 
along with Olompali-Barton, who has been using the ranch's name as 
her own since she lived here.

Reaction to Vietnam War

The state of California bought Olompali in 1977, and opened a park on 
its 700 acres of oak-studded rolling hills.

Parkman knows some might scoff at his project to catalog and display 
the artifacts of an era many alive remember well or not so well if 
they were especially indulgent.

But the commune, he said, is as much a part of Olompali as the rest 
of its history, stretching back thousands of years.

"I see the commune as part of the Cold War," he said. "If we hadn't 
had the Cold War, we wouldn't have had Vietnam, and if we hadn't had 
Vietnam, we wouldn't have had the commune. It was one of the 
reactions to the war."

The years the commune existed, late 1967 to 1969, were some of the 
most tumultuous and divisive in modern American history, Parkman said.

Prominent figures of the '60s visited the site the Grateful Dead 
rented the ranch the year before the commune moved in and hippie 
culture went on to have an indelible impact, for better or worse, on 
global culture, he said.

Miwok Indian settlement

The commune members lived, Parkman noted, in a historic 1911 stucco 
mansion that was built on and attached to an 1828 adobe of a Miwok 
Indian chief.

The adobe, now fully visible, is the oldest standing structure in the 
state north of San Francisco and a national registered historical site.

Olompali is also historically rich, Parkman said, because native 
Miwok Indians developed major settlements here. The park's name is 
Miwok, and it means "southern village" or "southern people."

After the commune members were gone, Parkman said, the land was 
controlled by a Jesuit order. Archaeologists excavating here in 1976 
unearthed a startling find at a Miwok site: an Elizabethan silver 
sixpence minted in England in 1567 that could have arrived by way of 
Sir Francis Drake.

The commune members were generally aware of some of the ranch's 
heritage, including the Miwok, Olompali-Barton said. Their ethos was 
"get back to the land," and live simply with nature.

But acid rock was their soundtrack. And in 1969, while many in the 
commune were working at a rock concert light show in San Francisco, 
an electrical fire broke out at the mansion and gutted it.

The fire was part of a downward spiral Olompali-Barton blames on a 
decision to open the commune up to more than a closely knit circle of families.

"There were the freeloaders who came," she said, "who sat in the 
living room playing music and not helping at all."

Police raided the commune twice and busted members for drugs. And 
after the fire, two toddlers drowned in the ranch's pool when a woman 
who was supposed to be watching them failed in her responsibility, 
Olompali-Barton said.

The tragedy led to the commune's final collapse.

"I think there were some dark moments at Olompali," Parkman said. But 
some of the commune's counterculture ideals, he said, such as organic 
food and environmentalism, have become mainstream.

'Marin Rocks' exhibit

Over the years, state park workers have gradually sorted through the 
burned mansion, where 19th-century artifacts have been retrieved.

This year, Parkman, Olompali-Barton and other volunteers sorted 
through drums of debris collected years ago and stored at the park.

Some pieces are already on display at the park visitor center, and 
others will be included next year in a Marin History Museum exhibit 
called "Marin Rocks."

Old jazz records dating from the 1940s and '50s belonged to the older 
commune members rather than the Woodstock generation, he said. The 
find underscored that many who wanted to drop out and join the 
counterculture were not youths.

Olompali-Barton's mother, Sandra, was in her late 40s when she 
founded the commune, along with other older people with kids and 
several Vietnam War combat veterans in their 20s. Sandra Barton kept 
a foot in the "straight" world, performing as a singer at San 
Francisco hotels and clubs.

Don McCoy, then 37, a local businessman with three children, 
bankrolled the experiment with a fortune he inherited and earned 
developing the Sausalito houseboat marina.

And one of the commune women, Olompali-Barton recalled, married an 
Air Force man and used to shop at the commissary of a Marin County 
base, hauling along a gaggle of home-schooled kids in hippie garb.

Parkman said some commune kids grew up to be angry at their parents, 
especially those who gave the kids drugs or felt unprotected with 
strangers wandering nude.

But others cherish memories of freedom and fun, and believe they 
witnessed history.

"Anything groovy that's created can exist, and then can dissolve," 
Olompali-Barton said.

--------

Adobe home found under Marin hippie commune

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/01/14/BAOH159AN9.DTL

Peter Fimrite, Chronicle Staff Writer
Wednesday, January 14, 2009

The artifacts from the Age of Aquarius were laid out Tuesday on a 
plastic sheet in an old barn in Marin County's Olompali State Historic Park.

There, stiff and rumpled from being in storage so long, was a leather 
jacket with a rainbow colored flower motif, some old boots, dozens of 
melted records, burned-out speakers, charred beads, monopoly pieces, 
soot-covered reel-to-reel tapes, pieces of a porcelain toilet and 
beer cans - lots of beer cans.

It was, let's face it, junk. But to archaeologists, it was groovy junk.

Senior State Archaeologist E. Breck Parkman and representatives of 
the California Department of Parks and Recreation began sorting this 
week through artifacts left 40 years ago by the infamous hippie 
commune known as the "Chosen Family."

The midden from which they dug everything up was actually inside the 
burned-out ruins of the 22-room Burdell Mansion, where the group once 
lived. The historic mansion was known in the 1960s as "the White 
House of hippiedom."

"The '60s were a very interesting and tumultuous decade, and in 50 to 
100 years it will be a very important decade for historians to talk 
about and study," Parkman said as he leafed through the debris in the 
park, which overlooks the Petaluma River and San Pablo Bay. "During 
the two years the commune was here, they witnessed the assassinations 
of Martin Luther King Jr. and Bobby Kennedy, and we put a man on the moon."

It all started in 1967 when houseboat developer Don McCoy decided to 
drop out during the Summer of Love and used inheritance money to 
lease the 700-acre estate at Rancho Olompali, just north of Novato. 
He recruited a dozen friends and their children to join him at 
Olompali, where they set about creating a hippie utopia.

The members started calling themselves "the Chosen Family," to the 
delight of the mirthful press. Pretty soon the ranks of the band grew 
to 50, and their exploits were recorded with zeal in the newspapers.

McCoy, with his long, dark beard and flowing locks, was labeled the 
"hippie benefactor," the "bearded patriarch" and the "rich guru."

The children attended a "Not School" school run by a pot-smoking nun. 
Two of the students, it was gleefully reported, were the sons of 
Richard (Sgt. Sunshine) Bergess, a San Francisco police sergeant 
convicted of smoking pot on the Hall of Justice steps.

People came from all over to visit, including actors, spiritual 
leaders, astrologers, numerologists and musicians, including Janis 
Joplin, Grace Slick and the Grateful Dead. The picture on one of the 
Grateful Dead's album covers was taken under an oak tree at the commune.

The members did carpentry work, baked communal bread and lived in hippie bliss.

Then things took a turn for the worse. Two children drowned when they 
fell into the swimming pool. The driver of a big-rig truck was killed 
in a grisly accident after one of the rancho's 40 horses escaped and 
ran onto Highway 101.

There were two renowned drug busts in 1969. In one of them, narcotics 
agents demanded to know who owned all the pot they found. McCoy 
responded famously, "It belongs to God. I just smoke it."

The coup de grĂ¢ce came when the historic two-story mansion burned 
down on Feb. 2, 1969, the victim, apparently, of an electrical 
problem. But some good came out of it. The fire exposed an adobe 
structure built before 1834 that subsequent generations had simply 
built structures over. It was the home of Camillo Ynitia, the last 
leader of the Miwok Indian village at Olompali, Parkman said.

The Chosen Family is long gone, but the detritus of their lives sat 
until 1997 in what Parkman called "a hippie midden" on the floor of 
the gutted mansion. The debris was placed in sealed barrels after 
asbestos was discovered. Crews in hazmat suits began cleaning the 
debris this week so that archaeologists could sort through it.

No bongs have been found, but one thing is certainly clear from the 
Chosen Family artifacts. The members liked Budweiser, Coors, Olympia 
and Busch beer with old-fashioned pull tops.

The idea of going through the stuff, said Victor Bjelajac, the park 
maintenance supervisor who is assisting Parkman, is not only to find 
items from the 1960s but also to search for artifacts from the 
pioneers. He said pearl doorknobs and other decorative artifacts 
found amid the debris probably date back a century or more.

"If you look at any archaeological dig in any kind of midden, you are 
looking at someone's trash," Bjelajac said. "We are trying to 
interpret what all the trash means."

Parkman said most of the sorting should be completed by the 40th 
anniversary of the Burdell Mansion fire. Once he is done with the 
hippies, he said, he would like to get permission to excavate the 
ruins of the adobe, under which lie the remains of Coast Miwok 
settlements dating back 8,000 years.
--

E-mail Peter Fimrite at [email protected].

--------

Digging the Age of Aquarius

http://www.archaeology.org/0907/abstracts/hippies.html

Why trash from a hippie commune is worth preserving

Volume 62 Number 4, July/August 2009
by Matthew Brunwasser

Melted sneakers, scorched fabric, broken plates, a tube of 
40-year-old face cream, red plastic Monopoly hotels, and other chunks 
of debris fill cardboard cartons on a conference table at the 
Olompali State Historic Park Visitors Center in northern California. 
Some might call these artifacts--the remains of a hippie commune that 
called the park its home between 1967 and 1969--junk. But California 
state archaeologist E. Breck Parkman disagrees. Believing that his 
job managing the state's historical resources gives him a 
responsibility not only to interpret the past, but also to plan for 
the future, Parkman is working to make sure that these seemingly 
mundane items aren't just thrown away. He's convinced that sorting, 
identifying, and storing some of these artifacts will enable future 
generations of archaeologists to create their own interpretations of 
the years between the Summer of Love and Woodstock--a period of 
political turbulence, generational conflict, and cultural 
experimentation that shaped modern America.

On a rainy day in February, I listen as Parkman explains his vision 
of how to preserve the history of the commune that existed here 
before a fire destroyed its rented home, a 22-room, 19th-century 
house called the Burdell Mansion, about 30 miles north of San 
Francisco. In the face of resistance to using the funds of a state 
with a $42-billion budget deficit to go through "hippie trash," 
Parkman has enlisted several museum curators and two former commune 
residents to help him figure out what to keep and what to throw away. 
"Are we honoring the hippie period [by keeping these artifacts]?" 
asks 56-year-old Parkman with the slight southern accent he brought 
with him from his native Georgia. "No. We are saying that it's 
significant. What's important is that we want to curate the artifacts 
so that 50, 100, or 200 years in the future, people will be able to 
pull them out and do scientific study."

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