Exhibits trace decades-old fashion, fabric trends

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2009/nov/22/exhibits-traces-decades-old-fashion-fabric-trends/

November 22, 2009
By Deborah K. Dietsch

"Clothing the Rebellious Soul" at George Washington University's 
Luther W. Brady Art Gallery is a nostalgic look at counterculture 
fashions of the 1960s and early 1970s. Mannequins dressed in vintage 
bell-bottoms, peasant blouses and mini skirts reflect the hallmarks 
of hippie style from the Woodstock generation.

Organized by vintage clothiers Nancy Gewirz and Mark Hooper, the 
exhibit takes baby boomers on a groovy trip down memory lane. At the 
same time, it reminds younger viewers that the bohemian fashions now 
in vogue came from their parents' beads, peace signs and psychedelic prints.

The curators have made an effort to connect the designs to their 
turbulent times with posters, record albums and memorabilia from the 
era. For hippie youth, clothing became a means of personal protest 
against the establishment. Wearing a camouflage Army shirt or a 
jacket adorned with the American flag was more than a fashion 
statement; it was a political statement about the unpopular Vietnam War.

Three-piece suits and shirtwaist dresses were cast aside for casual, 
mismatched garb expressive of nonconformity. The exhibit reflects 
this eclectic style in vintage outfits put together from 
Victorian-style camisoles, military gear, leather halter tops, 
crocheted dresses and ethnic pieces from India, Hungary and Mexico.

Denim jeans and jackets, the uniform of the era, are shown to be 
individualized by both sexes with hand-painted decorations, 
embroidery and political buttons.

Indian-style moccasins and beaded headbands, colorful bandanas and 
tinted granny glasses finished the look.

The only significant item missing from the gallery's hippie love-in 
is a tie-dyed T-shirt, a curious oversight given the curators' clear 
affection for the period.

Surrounding the clothing are song lyrics from popular bands as 
reminders of the musicians who set the hip fashion trends. Leading 
the way were Janis Joplin in a feather boa, Jimi Hendrix in a fringed 
jacket and Jim Morrison in leather pants, all recalled in photographs 
by Elaine Mayes, who documented rock groups during the 1960s.

Andy Warhol's pop art also played a role in designs such as "The 
Souper Dress," a paper shift emblazoned with Campbell soup cans. Even 
more emblematic of the period are the brightly colored artworks by 
Peter Max, but his important influence on 1960s fashion is only 
conveyed through a horoscope-decorated scarf displayed in a vitrine 
outside the gallery.

In addition to the clothes are documents and artifacts from the 1960s 
and 1970s in hallway displays to remind viewers of the decades' 
social and political unrest. Raised fists symbolizing black power, 
recruiting brochures for the radical Students for a Democratic 
Society and an Army helmet emblazoned with "draft beer, not students" 
are among the mementos representing the civil rights and anti-war movements.

In places, the assortment of objects resembles the thrift stores 
where hippies often shopped for their fashions. It provides an 
informative if uneven backdrop to the clothing but only scratches the 
surface of the rebellious era.

WHAT: "Clothing the Rebellious Soul: Revolution 1963-1973"
WHERE: Luther W. Brady Art Gallery, George Washington University, 805 
21st St. NW
WHEN: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, through Jan. 22
ADMISSION: Free
PHONE: 202/994-1525
WEB SITE: www.gwu.edu/~bradyart/

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