Pokhara & the Himalayan hippie trail
by Matthew Firestone, i.gadling.com
March 7th 2011 12:30 PM
Kathmandu may be the first city that comes to mind when you mention Nepal.
But when it comes to retracing the infamous 'Hippie Trail' of the 1960s,
there is no better place than Pokhara. Little known outside the hard-core
travel circuit, Pokhara is Nepal's 3rd largest city, and - more importantly
- lies in the shadow of three of the ten tallest mountains in the world.
On Friday, Gadling presented 48 hours in Kathmandu as a brief introduction
to the mountain kingdom. But to truly come face-to-face with the majesty and
grandeur of Nepal, you have to climb up into the Himalayas.
Prior to the construction of a major highway in 1968, the only way to access
Pokhara was to hike in. Difficult access meant that travelers were in no
rush to go anywhere else. The stories of bygone sex, drugs and rock n' roll
in Pokhara are absolutely legendary.
With jet-setting flashpackers becoming more of the norm rather than the
exception, things are certainly more PG-13 these days. But that doesn't mean
that Pokhara is any less magical. Have we peaked your interest yet? Read on
to find out more about the last vestiges of the Himalayan Hippie
Trail.Everest is the unquestionable rooftop of the world, but the Annapurna
circuit has no less than three mountains that break the 8,000 meter (26,246
feet) mark. Considering that Pokhara and the surrounding valley bottom out
at 1,500 meters (4,921 feet), the contrast scale is epic.
And then there's the vegetation. Lying in sub-tropical climes, Pokhara is
flush with flowering plants, leafy vines and towering trees. Outside the
city limits, the jungle quickly takes root. Not long ago, tiger sightings
were quite common, though sadly their numbers are on the decline.
With so much stunning nature, it shouldn't come as a surprise that hiking
and trekking are the two main activities on hand. In town, every other shop
will sell you North Face-branded gear (most of dubious origins), and offer
guiding services, chartered expeditions or simply friendly advice.
If you're inexperienced with high-altitude alpine conditions, consider an
overnight hike to the hill station at Sarangkot. Although you're just a
smidgen above 2,000 meters (6,561 feet), you're still high enough to escape
from the urban confines.
You're also in the shadow of the Annapurna range, and well-positioned for
one of the most spectacular sunrises of your life. In the wee hours of the
morning, the sun crosses the horizon on the opposite end of the valley,
slowly enveloping the Himalayas in a blanket of soft orange light.
Got weak knees? Apprehensive about the down-climb to Pokhara? There happens
to be a well-respected paragliding school at Sarangkot, which means that
tandem jumps are safe and relatively affordable (around US$100).
Up for a more serious challenge? Consider the 14-day roundtrip trek from
Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp (4131 m; 13,553 ft). You will need to be
properly outfitted for this trek, and altitude sickness is a minor risk
worth mentioning.
With that said, the relaxed pace gives you plenty of time to acclimatize,
and there is no technical climbing required to reach the top. Along the way,
you can also keep your energy levels high by stopping at remote tea shacks
staffed by local villagers.
At such great heights, never underestimate the rejuvenative power of a good
cuppa' tea!
For technical climbers in search of death-defying challenges, tackling the
peaks of the so-called 'eight-thousanders' is unmatched. Rising more than
8,000 meters (26,246 feet), Annapurna I, II and III are amongst the
deadliest mountains in the world. It's estimated that 40% of expeditions
result in fatalities. In comparison, Everest claims the lives of less than
5% of climbers.
Not in a rush to meet your maker?
One of the most enchanting aspects of Pokhara is that the city wraps around
the edges of a tranquil lake. Rowboats can be rented for a few dollars, and
you can paddle out to an island shrine. Overhead, flocks of hungry swallows
do an admirable job of insect control.
Much like Kathmandu,Pokhara is also home to a very large Tibetan refugee
population. Momo (Tibetan-style dumplings) are great for a quick fix,
especially when washed down with Nepali millet beer and rice brandy. If you
like your alcohol in bottles, the commercially brewed Everest lager also
hits the spot.
Believe it or not, Pokhara also has something of a thriving Italian food
sector. Wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas are ubiquitous - it's not
Sicily, but the quality is much better than you'd think. Carbo-loading is
also the order of the day if you're planning on heading up into the
mountains.
And now, for a bit of the nitty-gritty details...
The best time to visit Pokhara is during the dry season (October to May)
when the skies are clear and sunny. In the wet season (June to September),
Asia gets pounded by monsoon rains. During this time, you will not be able
to see the mountains through the grey gloom, and transportation will grind
to a halt.
Speaking of transportation, the modern era has opened up Pokhara to the
world. Rather than hiking into Pokhara like the hippies of yore, you can
take the bus from Kathmandu. Advertised time is seven hours, but the reality
is often closer to ten. Accidents are sadly all too commonplace, so be
advised that personal safety is no guarantee.
Those wary of long bus rides can fly on one of Nepal's domestic airlines:
Yeti Air, Buddha Air or Agri Air. Flight time is less than one hour, and the
views below are nothing less than stunning. As a disclaimer however, all
three airlines have less than stellar crash records. Getting to Pokhara may
be an adventure in itself, but trust us - the journey is entirely worth the
risks.
The 1960s are long gone, but there are still vestiges of the hippie dream
flourishing in the Himalayas.
Namaste. Pokhara awaits.
** All images are original photographs produced by this blogger **
Original Page:
http://i.gadling.com/2011/03/07/pokhara-and-the-himalayan-hippie-trail/
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