[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have no interest in paying someone to do something I can do myself.
Don't ask them on my account.
I can not remember anyone discussing paying for installation, but
asking for tips on DIY.
It is easy, but don't strip 6" of covering off unless you are going to
then cut 5" of wire. You get Cat5 performance by keeping the same
twisting going right to the termination block. Also don't supertwist
the ends as this can degrade performance as well and snap solid core
cable.
Buy a proper termination tool (there are cheap ones around) and don't
try using a screwdriver as people say you can.
Test as you go as this points out errors in your method when they are
easy to fix.
It will take longer than you think. Termination is quick compared to
walking roof trusses and pulling/fastening roof trusses.
Cable clamps/supports/pins are cheap, buy them and use them
Number/identify both ends of each run uniquely on each cable. So the
first two runs are 1&2, then run out, pinned up and finally cut and
labelled 1&2 on the panel end as well, then 3&4, etc.
It makes more sense to have the panel numbers follow a sequential
wander around the rooms, then be all over the place.
I prefer to run cable before the gyprocker goes to work as all good
gyrockers will punch the holes in the sheeting for you. They do it for
the electrical as it is. The finished room will look different once
sheeting is up. Nothing worse then punching a hole in a wall into the
wrong stud cavity {:-).
0.5m of cable at the wall plate is fine. Hint- you can nail mounting
brackets to the studs just like the elctricians do - this is easier
than those fiddly slip in clips.
But at the panel, allow 1m-2m. Remember, you don't want cable coming
in under the stairs, then swinging throught the air to the back of the
patch panel. Make sure you allow enough to be clamped to walls, cable
ties to brackets, etc.
Turks and others sell channel conduit with snap on covers that can be
fastened to walls to provide accessable cable ducting.
If you are planning on doing monitoring, also allow for an independent
power source. You can not monitor a front room with a sugar cube
camera if it's power comes from a mains plug in the room, that can be
unpowered by a bugular from the fuse box.
>
> We are currently using ROLIN BELL, located at
Whilst company names are being posted (and to make this post a bit
more useful), I can recommend the Bush Brothers (don't know the
company name) from Riverwood as being very good at cabling. Also
Rivercorp from Hornsby (but that was a few years ago).
--
Terry Collins {:-)}}} Ph(02) 4627 2186 Fax(02) 4628 7861
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] www: http://www.woa.com.au
or [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WOA Computer Services <lan/wan, linux/unix, novell>
snail: PO Box 1047, Campbelltown, NSW 2560.
"People without trees are like fish without clean water"
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