In a message dated 12/5/99 12:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< The tricky part is getting the overlapping FG to bond flush inside. Years
ago molders told me to run a wet brush on a stick down the length of the
overlapping FG to get it down. The only problem, is that you have to have
some access for the brush to reach. >>
Hi Chris.
I agree with most of what you've said here... Although I have used this same
method for very tiny fuses - I have had better results by allowing both
halves to tack-up a little before adding the extra resin to the seam line and
overlap just prior to joining. For me, the slight stiffness of the
overlapping glass helps to make sure that it lays in flat and against the
other half of the mold - This still leaves a seam, just a very thin one. Not
exactly seamless, but a very clean line.
For all other fuses, I use long brass tubes with home made forks/and steel
wheel assemblies, to literally "roll out" the overlap inside both the top and
bottom seams of the fuses - In this case, joining as soon as possible works
best.
See Ya,
Steve
RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and
"unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
