For demonstration purposes I have made a 3m meter glider with a foam fuselage covered with glass or paper and the wings made with blue foam spruce spars and brown paper covering . For control I used pull pull through McDonald's drinking straws exiting all together just in front of the fin. Of course this was a good split to the rudder but definitely offset a bit to the elevator. The elevator had to be off set a long way to the side to clear the long rudder. The plane flew well. I used a bolt through the dowel I had put in the rudder before vacuuming on the brown paper. The bolt extended about one inch beyond each side of the hinge line. I made up for some of the offset or setback in the two surfaces by using wheels on the servos. I pulled not from the center hole that would make them a straight line on the axis of the servo wheel but back one hole on each side. I used the Kevlar similar to what Sullivan supplies in their pull pull kits but I got it on the control line reel probably from the same Sullivan. This is supposed to be good for about 120#. I knotted at the control surface end then put it through the hole on the servo on both sides then around the screw in the center. If you remember to wind in the direction of the tightening of the screw and leave enough slack the lines can easily be made quite tight. Kevlar has little give so don't over tighten the Kevlar or the screw in the center of the servo holding them. Bottom line a cheap cheap cheap good flying plane. Or to be more on the sales side a very inexpensive unit. Since then I have attempted to sophisticate the plane and have made a John Sullivan type fuselage with a glass blue foam spruce spar wing. This time The fuselage was hollow so I put a nylon exit in front of the fin to keep from cutting the Kevlar where it would be sawing into the exit hole. This combination worked very well too. I made the stab to be removable by making a saddle on the boom the same time I made the wing saddle but put bolts up through the fuse into the stab and down through the wing into the fuselage. Stab assembly is not too difficult and it permitted putting the whole combination into a large gun case. The whole combination came together finally with a decent day to fly yesterday . In my case of learning I was happy to have overdone it on the strength of the line that I used. The Kevlar held up well except when I took it around for demonstration . I left the stab loose so you could easily see how it worked and with it flopping as it was passed from person to person it really does a job fraying that type of Kevlar. Rick Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 18:54:39 +0000 From: dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Les Grammer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [RCSE] Question on pull-pull elevator... Message-ID: <kOl$[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Les Tried fire line and it stretches under the tension (Rudder not Elevator) I went to 30lb pike stainless ptfe covered trace and never suffered another problem you can get crimps that fit it also so making up connections are easy. Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Les Grammer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes >Sorry, no story this time, just a question. I'm setting up an open-class >TD ship, and installing a pull-pull elevator. I'm was planning on using a >kevlar line by Berkley (Fireline). Is 20lb strength sufficient, or am I >asking for trouble? RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
