I once read somewhere about a common household chemical that disolves CA.  The comment 
was in the context of removing it from your fingers.  I have some CA residue on a wing 
I need to remove.  Is there any safe chemical that will do it?

-Ben

Tord wrote:
> 
> A short rundown:
> 
>   White glues (orginally based on milk, now made
>   from PVA - a plastic) are excellent on foam, wood
>   and paper. Hard to sand smooth. Resilient joints.
>   Perfect for applying balsa to foam cores, et cetera.
>   Slow drying. Usually fuel-proof. Some variants are
>   water-proof, some are less so! All can be washed away
>   with water when fresh!
> 
>   If applied sparingly it can be used as a non-dangerous
>   replacement for CA.
> 
>   CA attaches to almost anything - soaks into joints
>   very well and is ideal for gluing odd stuff like steel,
>   glass and some plastics. Very strong, but brittle. Very
>   hard when dry, so almost impossible to sand smooth.
>   Dries fast, or very fast. Many health hazards involved -
>   are you prone to allergies keep far away! Use good
>   ventilation! Can result in fatal allergic shock! Can't
>   be washed away very successfully!
> 
>   Fuel-proof, but can dissolve to nothing in humidity I've
>   been told. It goes solid in the presence of humidity - so tight
>   bottles are absolutely necessary. But too much humidity
>   and it might go bad after long exposure)!
> 
>   Rubber based glues - petrol solved (like Goo): Excellent
>   for EPP foam, good for plastic-wood joints, easy to
>   apply (used sparingly it can be used to make covering
>   attach to EPP foam). Resilent joints, not very fuelproof!
>   The usual dangers with solvents apply!
> 
>   Rubber based glues - water-soluble: excellent for glueing
>   styrofoam pieces, or balsa skinning to styrofoam. Not the
>   strongest of glues, but can be used as a barrier when gluing
>   EPP to styrofoam: Coat styro with thin layer of this glue.
>   Let dry, completely. Apply petrol-solved rubber glue to
>   the EPP, as that glue sticks much better, and when almost
>   dry press together! Can be used as base for tape on Zagis,
>   but 3M77 is easier to handle.
> 
>   Rubber-based 3M77: Spray glue, that gets tackier when heated.
>   excellent for various uses, but sticks to everything except
>   teflon, so use with care! Styrosafe, wood safe, metal safe,
>   and so on. Solvent mild, but still a solvent.
>   Use with great care in well ventilated areas - sticks to
>   floor very well (remove with petrol or white spirit).
> 
>   Excellent for foam. Easy to use, but VERY expensive!
> 
>   Aliphatic resin: Behaves very much like white glue, but sands
>   much better. My favourite. Wash away with water before it is
>   dry, largely non-toxic. Excists in various forms, some behave
>   a bit like CA, but takes longer to dry. No great allergy concerns.
> 
>   Hot glue: Plastic based, heat melts the plastic, so it is
>   ecellent for joints that might have to be 'rewelded' after
>   a while. Mixes excellently with wood, styro, metal, epoxy, EPP.
>   Not the strongest - quite visible joints (like welds). Few
>   health concerns except that you might burn yourself on the
>   glue gun, or on the melted glue! Water-proof, ideal for
>   tacking wires to bulkheads in wooden fuselages, securing
>   CF rods and wooden spars to EPP. Not very neat! Hard to sand!
> 
>   Epoxy: Various sorts and speeds excist, with varying applications,
>   but generally ideal for highload areas, and is both fuel and
>   heat-proof. Used to make CF rods, attach glass cloth to
>   fuselages (attach the weave with a little 3M77 and then use
>   epoxy - but alphatic resin can auccessfully be used for attaching
>   glass cloth to wood). Typical areas: wing joiners, fire walls,
>   landing gears, Styro-EPP joints. Doesn't sand to easily!
>   Great health concerns - people who use it professionally often
>   have to change jobs after a while, and people can develope
>   fatal allergic reactions from any kind of epoxy! Handle with
>   care, use in well-ventilated areas! When dry pretty harmless -
>   which CA isn't!
> 
> 
> Tord,
> Sweden
> 
> --
> If reply difficulties - use [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Tord S. Eriksson, Ovralidsg.25:5, S-422 47 Hisings Backa, Sweden
> 
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