I like to use Burnley's Soldering Paste flux. First, clean the parts, and it helps to run the steel wire between two peices(one pc folded over) of 320 wet-or-dry to make sure any rust or dirt is removed. Applya small amount of paste with a tooth pick and solder with good quality 60/40 solder or best yet, use 63/37 whick is the best blend for electrical work as it goes directly from liquid to solid without the pasty stage leading to cold joints. It is harder to find, but available in hardware stores. After cooling, wipe joint clean with soft cloth and remove any remaining flux. This joint will be strong and last for years. A proper joint should be bright and shinny. This works on Brass, music wire bike spookes and most other typical hobby structures. Be sure to be especially careful of things like bike spokes and some of the push rods parts as they seem to be coated and should be sanded well, and cleaned just before soldering to make sure they are bright and clean.
.........bc AG4YQ Williamsburg, VA On Mon, 25 Jul 2005, Mickey Sullivan wrote: > I'm using silver bearing solder 96%tin/ 4% silver to solder 3/64" steel wire > and a propane torch. The solder rolls off even after using flux. Any > suggestions? > > Thanks, > Mickey > > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and > "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and > unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. > Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in > text format > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
