If I can't find one any other way, I'll build a plug and pull one from a 3-liter bottle, or glass a foam plug and melt it out, but I really don't have the time or inclination for that.
I spent some time tonight sanding away a lot of bad paint and filler to find a pretty shapely and nice fuse underneath. Worked a lot on the vertical stab tonight, the hub for the stabilator belcrank was just floating and wobbling around, broken loose from the V.Stab glass surface on one side. I CA'd it back in and it's better now, but it seems a weak point, any suggestions? The rudder was only taped-on to one side, is this still common practice? The rear of this bird's Vertical stab has a concave groove built in that fits a matching rounded L.E. on the rudder, but with the one-sided tape hinging on the outer surface, the rudder seems to not feel very "positive" and floats into and out of this gap a lot, it seems. I was thinking of alternate hinging, or taping BOTH sides somehow? Also, the rudder drive wire has VERY little mechanical advantage the way it's been attached: the rudder has maybe 30 degrees of free play, with the pushrod in the nose locked, and is easily deflected by a little pressure from my pinkie finger or even a strong exhale. Either this is on purpose, and the rudder is little-used by this plane, or deliberately made overridable, or it's some kind of mistake? I was thinking of adding a horn to the rudder instead of just burying an "L" bend up into the underside of the rudder's wooden surface itself. Any ideas or opinions? Thanks for any insights... -mark RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
