Collecting the dead in South Sudan's Bor
REPORT
from Agence France-Presse <http://reliefweb.int/organization/afp>
Published on 16 Feb 2014

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02/16/2014 10:12 GMT

*by Hannah McNeish*

BOR, February 16, 2014 (AFP) - Beneath skies filled with vultures circling
the ghost town of Bor in South Sudan's Jonglei state, diggers are clearing
more space for the bodies slowly filling the ground.

Some have lain where they fell since December, when fighting broke out in
the capital Juba, some 200 kilometres (130 miles) to the south.

A stand-off between the country's leader Salva Kiir and his former deputy
Riek Machar quickly spread to Bor, where old ethnic, political and
historical tensions were revived and countless people were killed.

Now, limbs are melting under the sweltering sun, exposing bones that dry
and twist like firewood. But one man is determined to count, despite the
pervasive stench and mammoth task of clearing up what local and UN
officials estimate are a few thousand bodies.

"I was sick for three days, but I couldn't stop. I couldn't leave the
bodies," said Michael Mayen, a human rights lawyer turned self-appointed
body collector whose tears and constant coughing have hardened into a
resolve to bury as many people as he can.

"We have to honour our people. We have to bury them."

Kitted only with one white cotton glove and rubber boots, Mayen has been
dragging the dead off the streets of Bor, away from the jaws of feasting
dogs and circles of sharp beaks.

"We started collecting the bodies on January 27 and now we collected to
this moment 2,007 bodies," he said, standing at a site where 134 people
have just been buried.

More white body bags -- some with alarmingly small contours -- glint in the
sun and line the streets. When shifted, they cause a smell so violent that
resident Joseph Mabyei snatches a fistful of herbs from the ground, spits
and takes an alternate route to the nearby water point.

"I smelt the bodies and I cried," said Mabyei, who lost 30 friends and
relatives in the fighting. "It makes me feel very bitter, having this rot
in your nose."

   - War goes on -

Jonglei's acting governor, Aquilla Lam, said that "maybe 60 percent of Bor
has been cleared" and hope of salvaging more remains is crumbling.

"We don't have equipment. We don't have cars", he said.

For now, he is focused on taking out Machar's rebel forces that are still
fighting in three of South Sudan's 10 states, even if a ceasefire is
supposed to be in place and peace talks are ongoing in neighbouring
Ethiopia.

"We must defeat the enemy, bury them and clean our town."

Bor Commissioner Agot Alier said that teams are going house to house to
find the bodies, but have only managed to check the main town and a site
around 5 kilometres (3 miles) out.

"We know that they will be in a very bad state and rotting," he said, "but
what can we do?"

Mayen has been photographing bodies that could be identifiable to relatives
who fled successive attacks on Bor by forces loyal to South Sudan's army,
and rebels joined by the White Army -- a militia comprising thousands of
youths known for marching into battle daubed in white ash.

But many bodies have already been burnt beyond recognition, and are little
more than a pile of ash left outside charred huts where only wire bed
frames show former signs of life.

   - Evidence lost -

Human Rights Watch has been calling on the UN peacekeeping mission in South
Sudan and the African Union to investigate massacres across the country and
release reports on abuses now, before the evidence and the accountability
needed to the end violence are buried.

"The slowness from both institutions sends the wrong signal that, even as
the violence continues, yet again perpetrators in South Sudan may have
their crimes ignored," said Skye Wheeler, HRW's South Sudan researcher.

"Evidence is disappearing as neighbours bury their dead in unmarked graves
and bullet casings are swept away. This evidence needs to be documented
now, for example the dead in Bor need to be photographed and the
information properly catalogued to help reconstruct events," she added.

The UN's recent announcement that cluster bomb remnants have been found
near Bor is unlikely to speed boots back to the ground, especially to areas
others have not trodden.

At a church where 20 people were killed -- among them six female priests --
Reverend Thomas Kur said that despite bleaching the floors, digging up the
blood-soaked earth where three women were raped and butchered and removing
the wooden doors, he can't get rid of the smell of death that hangs over
much of Bor.

"There are many bodies still around," he said.

He and a handful of others are attending the mass burials as residents
trickle back in and focus on merely staying alive.

Mother-of-four Mary Aru only went back from the bush to Bor for the day to
salvage the remnants of her home.

"The whole house was destroyed. They stole the beds, everything. The only
thing we found were a few pieces of cloth," she said of the contents of her
wheeled suitcase bumping noisily down otherwise empty dirt streets where a
small bird's chirping is amplified.

Gazing up at the sky, she worries about the flocks of birds with a new
taste for flesh.

"I don't know whether they're going to eat me or not," she said.

str/sas/mfp

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