I've had that happen, but used this system: The threaded end of the long bolt has a blunt tapered point machined onto the end. I used a long (36") steel pipe, and BFH (Big Ferrous Hammer) to drive the bolt out. The tapered end of the bolt keeps the end of the pipe centered.
Carter Shore --- Douglas Braun & Nadia Papakonstantinou <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > If the long bolt is frozen in place, you have a > long, painful > job with a hacksaw blade ahead of you. > > Doug Braun > '72 Spit > > At 12:24 PM 5/3/02 , you wrote: > >Mark Holbrook wrote: > > > > > > Has anyone replaced the rear mount on a GT6 > diff? I > > > think it is worn out because my fear end is > hopping > > > when I start the forward motion. > > > >Don't quote me Mark, but I believe the holes in the > pumpkin for the > >long rear bolt are bushed-- which should be an EZ > fix. If the frame's > >mount points are worn, it's a weld job. > >-- Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness http://health.yahoo.com /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
