Jack, you can also test the unit is sending correctly if you have a multimeter as you can measure the resistance between the contacts with the unit out of the car.empty should be several hundred ohms, half tank is 50-60 ohms, 3/4 tank is 30ohms and full is about 15 ohms. Just move the lever around with the meter connected. I had a bad unit I had to replace. In fact both of the gauges appaera to be electrically identical in the facia apart from the lettering as you get similar values from the temp sender. So if anyone is ever stuck......
Alan -----Original Message----- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on behalf of "Jack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 22:32:53 -0400 To: "spitfire maillist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fuel tank float/brake clunk I finally got around to pulling the sending unit from the fuel tank of my '78 spitfire today. I had rebuilt the clutch slave and put in a new speedometer cable. They work OK now, so the mileage will rise above the 26K+ I've had for the past few years. The fuel gauge hasn't worked since I got it. I suspected maybe the sending unit was "frozen" since fiddling w/ the wiring didn't seem to make any difference. I found the unit wasn't frozen but the plastic thing that's supposed to float was full of fuel. I manage to shake it to get the fuel out and put it back in to see what would happen. Actually, nothing happened, but that is inconclusive, since the tank was about empty of fuel anyway in preparation for this very operation. I plan to swing around to fill it up and see whether the float will float, at least a little while, before it fills up and sinks again. My question is, does anybody know where/if I can get just the float? I didn't operate the sending unit while I had it out. The book had advised to "isolate the battery' during this operation and it seemed like a good idea, therefore there was no electric to operate the gauge. I have also detected a "clunking" noise when I brake from street speeds. It seems to be coming from the right rear and only under braking. I had looked at the brake and checked for U-joint play before and couldn't find the problem, but I'm still not ruling out either one. Anyone have any ideas? JAK /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
