Paul, Were you using a digital meter, or one with a needle on a dial? It makes a difference.
The voltage stabiliser (at least the original one, modern solid state replacements are apparently available) works by switching between the full battery voltage (14V as you got) and zero volts, so that you get an average of 10V. It may stay for a second or two at 14V before switching to 0V and then back again. The needles on the fuel and temperature gauges move so slowly that they don't react to this changing voltage. Digital meters give you an instantaneous reading, updated every second or so, so they will show the full 14V (and occasionally 0V). A meter with a dial on it will work more like the gauge, and will show the average output, although they tend to react a bit faster so you may see the needle jumping around a bit, but averaging 10V. The other important thing is that the case of the voltage stabiliser must be earthed (or rather, connected to the -ve side of your battery charger in your test). If not, the output voltage will be exactly the same as the input voltage. If you test with the voltage stabiliser earthed, and you still get a continuous 14V, the voltage stabiliser is dead and you need a new one! Richard This email and any attached files are confidential and copyright protected. If you are not the addressee, any dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited. Unless otherwise expressly agreed in writing, nothing stated in this communication shall be legally binding. *** http://www.team.net/the-local *** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
