Happy 4th to all my neighbors to the South! Sorry for the cross-posts!
I have a project engine for a home rebuild, partly to save $s, and partly for the challenge. Here is what I gather so far: It is a late 1493cc engine reputedly had about 75,000 miles on it (FM132xxx I think). The oil filter had mileage at the last oil change written on the end, which along with other signs, would indicate the former owner took care of it. Engine was removed from an accident damaged car. Yet, the oil in it was black as coal. Whereas when the other pistons were removed the rings sprang out and expanded, on #4 cyl the rings stayed contracted into their slots, seemingly stuck together with a paste of oil and carbon. (Which explains the black oil). The crank journal under #2 cyl has visible but not feel-able (with fingertip) grooves, the others have wear but less. There is a feel-able (finger-tip again) wear ridge at the top of the cylinders. I've tried measuring, and get results varying from 2.90 at the very top, down to 2.893 at the bottom of a cylinder. There are variations, probably due to my lack of skill, I've never used the digital caliper and other thingy with axles on springs, before. On the head, intake and exhaust valves on #2 cyl. were removed. There was visible wear on the intake valve stem and some lateral movement, but neither on the exhaust valve. So questions: -do machine shops expect the crank removed, or would they prefer it in? -what about the camshaft, in or out? -do they expect to be told what to grind it to, or will they measure and decide? -should I be giving them the head as well to install new valve guides and skim? The machine shop I've chosen comes recommended, has worked on Spits and LBCs in general, and is located next door to a mechanic that works on LBCs and others. I've never used that mechanic, but they also come recommended. Should I be taking my own measurements and telling them what to grind it to, or letting them know the over-bore sizes available and let them get to it!? As you can tell by now I'm sure, the big question is: what do I ask and say to the machine shop, and what should I do to prepare before-hand? For those curious, I hope to use a rebuild kit available here: http://www.sportscarsupplies.com/catalogue.asp?model=Spitfire%20/%20GT6 The $3,500. odd that a lister on another list paid for a rebuild is beyond me. Many thanks for all suggestions, Nick Moseley, NASS #278 76-81 Spits , Near Vancouver B.C. _______________________________________________ Spitfires mailing list [email protected] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
