It sounds like a loose ground on the fuel sender... 1. Check the voltage between the Chassis and the Black wire of the sender (should be 0 volts. If it's greater than 0, then you have and loose ground) 2. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the sender (should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank) 3. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the gauge (should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank) 4. Since your temperature gauge is working, I doubt it is the voltage stabilizer but check the voltage from chassis to the light green wire of the gauge. It should be 10 volts.
Gene Eighmy Birmingham, AL > > Before I get into the issue I'm experiencing I want to let folks know > that I have used the archive info to install a new sender unit in the > tank, which seems to be working. I didn't see anything in the archive > that describes my particular problem. So here goes. All electrical > items in the car appear to work fine including the Temp Gauge, which I > believe is in line with the Fuel Gauge, at least according to the > schematic. > > > > When I start the Spit up the fuel gauge needle moves and gives me a > reading which I believe is pretty accurate, knowing how much I drive and > when the last time I got gas was. The problem occurs after about 15 > minutes or so of driving the car, when the needle in the gauge drops > back to empty. One time after driving longer the gauge came back to > life and was fine that day. Most of the time once the needle in the > gauge drops down to empty it never reads correctly again even across > engines starts and stops driving that day. It seems to want to really > settle like over-night before the gauge comes back to life again. > Like I said, the Temp Gauge continues to operate fine during this whole > time _______________________________________________ [EMAIL PROTECTED] [email protected] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
