>From my experience, I wouldn't worry. When I rebuilt my 1500 engine in 2002, I used a generic 3 wheeled engine stand. I also used standard fine thread bolts (with 3 washers under each head) from the hardware store to hold the engine on the stand. I saw absolutely no issues with strength of the bolts.
My stand didn't have any plates on the 4 bars that attached to the rotating spindle section that goes into the stand. It took a bit of fiddling around before I got the positioning right. The block was not well centered on the spindle, but it worked OK. The biggest issue was rotating the block in the stand with the out of balance situation. I'll see if I have a picture to send you off line. BillG Newalla, OK -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:54 PM To: Nick Moseley Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Spits] Emailing: 80 Spit engine + clean out camera 110 Thanks Nick, it does help. I'm mounting straight to the block itself, no rear engine plate is on it. I'm starting a restoration and I'm a little apprehensive of the small bolt diameter that will go into the block casting. I have fears that the whole thing will break. I'm also using a cheap "Harbor Freight " type engine stand. The hardware that comes with it is obviously meant to be used with big American car type engines. The metal tubes that came with it are also fairly large in diameter, so I'll probably will just add some washers to distribute the weight over a larger surface area. I'm not sure if I'll even use the large metal plates that came with it. Maybe I can bolt the block directly to the "spider" bar, which then slips into the stand's hole. thanks, Bob Dambrauskas _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html [email protected] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
