Just to follow-up on the breaking studs: I used the known(?) good studs and new nuts, very carefully and in small increments tightened the nuts, in sequence of course. All came to torque. The engine runs well. Re-torqued after bringing to temp on several short runs. Plan to do so again at 300 to 500 miles.
I have another problem, well one that is more critical than the others. Last night, after a short 17 mile drive, just as I was about to shut the engine down, the low beam headlights "flared" white bright and went out. Later that night driving home, I was forced to use the high beam. The dimmer switch does not hold the high beams on unless I hold it forward, which I did. Almost home the high beams went out. I did not notice a flare. Checking tonight, I find power at the harness connection where it splits to the R&L lamps, for both high and low beams. Lights burn out. But, both simultaneously? And later the other beam, both simultaneously? I can replace the lamps but it seems like there is something going on besides old lamps? Gary > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary Tash [mailto:[email protected]] > Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 5:05 PM > To: 'Ted Schumacher' > Subject: RE: [Spits] Head stud and nuts > > Well, I hope not to need any for a while now. But I'm certainly going to > consider a more known quantity, like ARP, next time. And, I had good > results with other bits you've provided me. > gary > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ted Schumacher [mailto:[email protected]] > > Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 4:57 AM > > To: Gary Tash > > Subject: Re: [Spits] Head stud and nuts > > > > Gary, saw your message on head studs. We supply ARP studs. They work. > > Please let me know if we can help. Ted > > > > > > On 6/12/2011 5:41 PM, Gary Tash wrote: > > > (Excuse me if this is a duplicate, my e-mail was malfunctioning and > I am > > > resending). > > > > > > > > > > > > I've been away from the list for a long time. Just getting the Spit > > back on > > > the road and ran into a problem not encountered before. > > > > > > I was refitting the head after valve renewal, using new studs > purchased > > from > > > a reputable supplier. 3 head nuts would not come to torque, one of > the > > > studs broke w/ot reaching torque. And it appears one of the other 2 > > studs > > > (at least) started to strip in the head. > > > > > > > > > > > > I checked the torque with two different wrenches, both of which I > use > > > regularly, so I'm pretty certain it was not over-torque. > > > > > > > > > > > > This is a combination of events that has left me confused. Some > > questions > > > have arisen from this novel experience (I've done this operation > many > > times > > > for this and other engines with no problems ever.). > > > > > > 1. From my present confused state of mind, I'm wondering > which > > end of > > > the stud goes in the block, long or short threads. Been doing it > the > > same > > > way forever, but . . . > > > > > > 2. I have been told that the proper head nuts are a grade 5, > > assuming > > > the studs are a grade 8. This is contrary to fastener industry > doctrine > > > which - as I read it - says that a nut should be at least as strong > as > > the > > > bolt/stud. i.e. a grade five could be fit to a grade five or lower. > > > Because the studs are reported to be grade 8, I purchased grade 8 > nuts > > for > > > the next attempt. > > > > > > > > > > > > My plan is to proceed with reassembly again. I have checked the > block > > > threads as well I can visually and by running a tap gently in each > hole > > with > > > light lubrication and have blown the debris from the holes. The > threads > > > appear ok. > > > > > > > > > > > > Any insight would be appreciated. > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > [email protected] > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/[email protected] > > > > > > > > > -- > > Ted Schumacher > > [email protected] > > http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com > > 108 S. Jefferson St. > > Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 > > Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) > > Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) > > Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 _______________________________________________ [email protected] Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/[email protected]
