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In a message dated 98-04-23 02:20:04 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > They were taken with Ektachrome 100 plus 120 (2 1/4 x 2 1/4). The camera > was a Bronica with no filter and I used my Nikon 8008 as a light meter. > I'm intrigued now to see the Railnews story and how the 100 Plus acted. What kind of shutter speeds were you using, Dave? Some else had asked about shooting in the shops.... There are several factors to getting good shop shots, but the most important variable is the shutter speed or open time. The artificial interior light does not produce the full spectrum of sunlight, and the film generally renders these lights with odd color balances. What compounds the color balance is the reciprocity rate of the film you use -- each color layers exposes at a different rate. Most daylight films are designed for faster exposures -- 1/30th of a second or faster. Kodak sez Kodachrome is good to about 1/10th. The shifts at a second or less are almost unnoticeable. Shop shots are normally taken in the 1/15th to 3 second range. If you want sharp shop shots, then use a tripod or bean bag and cable release. I have found in practice that Kodachrome, if exposed for less than five seconds or so, or at whatever the meter tells you, will appear pretty much as your eye saw it. It's the exposures of 30 seconds to a minute or more that have the flood lights and interior lights looking like the Emerald City. I have also found in practice that the Fuji E6 films are very sensitive to ambient light, and that the reciprocity failure time is much shorter. Colors seem to shift to the yellowish-green at just a few seconds. Also, five seconds with Fuji will get you a brighter slide than five second exposure on Kodachrome of the same abient light source. sporrs members have written here that they like the look of night shots on Fuji films -- that's a matter of individual taste. I'm only pointing out the differences and why they occur. Next time you're taking long exposures with artificial lights in 'em, try the exposure you like, then double the time and close 1 stop, double the time again and close another stop, double the time again and close another stop. You'll see the failure rate for that particular type of film and light source. You'll find negatives are much more forgiving than slide film. You can play with filters, but the results will still change with exposure times. Mike Thomas did a Camera Bag for R&R about filtering for shop lights. If I can find an electronic version, I'll post it here. Mike ======================================================= -> SPORRS: 'Serious Photographers Of Railroad Related Subjects' -> Web Site: http://www.anet-stl.com/acphotog/sporrs/ -> Message © 1998 SPORRS® - All Rights Reserved =======================================================
