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RICK NEWTON writes:
"I dangerously assume that you had  the f5.6 version of the lens.  f5.6 is
typically the slowest aperture that any autofocus camera will work with,
and does not always work well..  Autofocus cameras use a phase
matching
system to determine the focus, basically matching multiple images
together
to determine correct focus.  I may be incorrect, but the APO feature of
the
lens is less likely a cause of autofocusing failure, than the slow lens."

Answer:

That is actually a very good possibility, but I think it was due to something
in the non-APO glass. Here is why. I shoot the EOS system. Canon
cameras automatically disable AF when they detect a lens with a
maximum aperture smaller than f5.6. I have experienced that little joy, too.
It just runs the lens all the way out to maximum focus and then all the
way in  to the minimum focus without locking on anything. No matter how
optimumly textured the focusing object is, like a brick wall, the camera
cannot and will not find a lock. It is actually not even trying.  With my
Sigma 400mm f5.6 non-APO lens the camera would quickly and
repeatably find a focus lock. Unfortunately it was always about 10
percent behind what the desired target was. The difference in behavior
of the system between a smaller than f5.6 aperture lens and the
non-APO lens led me to believe that it was indeed the non-APO feature
which caused this particular problem.  Not knowing exactly what
wavelength of light the contrast sensors in the autofocus mechanism
were most sensitive to, I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the device
was indeed correctly focused on whatever wavelength it was looking
at. However, to my eyes, it was obviously not focused in the visible
spectrum. The slides shot were obviously not focused either. It was not
a case of gross overall softness as some elements in the image would
be sharp, while the desired object was blurred. (My wife's all time
favorite image of herself was accidently achieved this way. Her face is
rendered somewhat soft, while the trees and leaves behind her are
sharp. I always thought the image was no good because it is out of
focus, but she loves it for the soft look to her face. Obviously I am not a
portraiture specialist.) I found eventually that setting this lens to f8 or
smaller and using manual focus was the best way to work with it. It just
could not accurately focus with my system. If someone else has a better
explanation, I would be interested. In general, I would caution anyone
who uses an AF system to stick with the lenses made by the same
manufacturer as their camera bodies, and don't buy a long non-APO
lens.

Mark Bailey
Rockford, IL



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