Thanks Larry. I have installed ball drip valves, with and without the push rod. I have used a pen to push the ball back on those ball valves without the push rod. I found that usually stops the the leaks
From: Larry Keeping Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 5:07 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Ball drip valve If I understand you correctly, the ball drip that is installed is the automatic type, which is not right for the trim on a dry pipe valve. The valve should be of the mechanical type with a plunger that can be pushed to unseat the valve. Normally the valve should be unseated with no pressure behind it to cause it to seat. The valve is part of the the alarm line drain configuration. After an activation/valve trip, the water pressure in the alarm line would force the ball onto the seat. To drain it, as part of resetting the DPV, the plunger is pushed and held until the alarm line is fully drained. After resetting the DPV, the plunger is pushed again, to make sure there is no water in the line. If there is, that means that there is a leak at the clapper gasket/air seat, which must be rectified. I hope this helps with your problem. Larry Keeping From: Sprinklerforum <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Douglas Hicks Sent: October-01-18 12:45 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Ball drip valve I have a dry system that we change the 1/2”ball drip valve about every 6 months. There is no spring in the valve, it is straight through. Normally, if I have a problem with the valve resetting, I put my finger at the outlet and the ball is moved against the seat, and the ball seats. Any hints on how to get the ball to seat? Douglas Hicks General Fire Eq of Eastern Oregon, Inc -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Sprinklerforum mailing list [email protected] http://lists.firesprinkler.org/listinfo.cgi/sprinklerforum-firesprinkler.org
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