https://www.sqlite.org/wal.html

"5. It is not possible to open read-only WAL databases. The opening
process must have write privileges for "-shm" wal-index shared memory
file associated with the database, if that file exists, or else write
access on the directory containing the database file if the "-shm"
file does not exist."

second, I'm pretty sure that WAL mode is written to the database, so
it remembers what journal mode it was using... which if it wasn't WAL
would require writing to the database.

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