Dear Doug
Stone carvers got it right long before Nike - just go for it!
Why Carve? Tools and tecniques for the stone carver have not changed
especially since the time of the Egyptians and the Greeks - a rich source of
inspiration that allows us to tap into their creative process by following
the evidence of their actions with those basic shared handtools - the first
few hours of carving will allow you to look with new eyes on their
achievements - the marks that their tools made will be the familiar marks
that yours make - you won't need computers or �000's to take the first
steps in that understanding - just the evidence of your eyes and the feel
that comes with working the tools.
As long as the tools in your kit consist of the basic point (sometimes
called a punch), claw and chisel (99% of all stone carving has , is or will
ever be done with these three tools)
As long as they are properly tempered you should have no difficulty using
them on the softer sand and limestones - make sure you keep them sharp
however,
The act of carving will always be a combination of hand, eye and tool which
can only be achieved through experience. Grasp the point - initially firmly
in the left hand at an angle of roughly 60 -80 degrees to the surface of the
stone to split and/or point out the block depending on the quality of the
stone and any bedding (like grain in wood) - driving the tool into and
across the surface with a small number, two or three, of sharp hard blows
with mallet or lump hammer - do not drive the tool on and through the body
of the stone as in woodcarving as the carving action in stone is a breaking
process if you drive the tool too far you will break it or split the stone -
then simply place the tool on the next point along your surface and repeat
and repeat and repeat - this will open up the blocks surface quickly
allowing you to define the large volumes- follow this with the claw to
create the specific shapes, cross hatching across the worked surface to
define form - finishing with the chisel to close off the surface- create
detail etc and provide the final surface for smoothing or polishing--
invest in some stone rasps if you can or carborundum rubbing blocks for
smoothing the stone - save the larger chips when you carve for rubbing down
and shaping the stone.
You can also use picks and axes to address the larger rough block, wood
chisels and gouges to carve softer stones. Tungsten Carbide tipped tools are
the only real options for the harder gritstones and granites
-the eternal rhythm of clack, clack, clack and pause will soon become the
seductive rhythm of your carving experience.
Don't rush it - the stones been there for millions of years - it's in no
hurry, and theres always more if you need it - no need to be precious - You
need time to get your 'eye in' its not about strength or speed but about
confidence which can only be achieved with patient application and
exploration of the stone.
Work all around the block - keep moving - if you can by setting it at a
comfortable working height with space all around, that way you do not get
over involved in one area to the detriment of the whole composition.
If the creative forces aren't flowing - stop - don't force it, I often have
six or seven pieces on the go at any one time so that I can work on the
polishing or sanding of one whilst my subconcious stews the options for
others.
Contemporary Stone Sculpture by Dona Z Meilach fro Schiffer Pubs of the US
is the best hands on starter book I have found.
You will hit your thumb - it will hurt
Best of luck - despite everything that can and will go off on tangents as
soon as you start working - you'll find its still the most rewarding of
sculptural techniques
mike williams
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