Marc and Crispin,
This is a useful document for assessing boiler/furnace performance, especially when they are on all the time. Seasonal space heating efficiencies need to take into account standby losses. The masonry heater folks are grappling with this. Can we cap that chimney in the off cycle? Thats frowned upon. What is the true cost of that chimney? My daughter needs a new way to heat her home. There are interuptable electricty rates which together with mass thermal storage for off peak power rates allow for chimneyless space heating. (Still need some air change is humans are involved) Competing combustion based systems require venting where the effects of barometric draft dampers and their kin are often left out of the sales literature.

Alex

Gleaned by google;


   Heating Efficiency

__

High efficiency heating systems have become popular because they save fuel and, one would suppose, save money. But what do they mean when they talk about efficiency? What is furnace efficiency? Actually, there are two ways to measure it -steady state and seasonal.


     Steady State Efficiency

Steady state efficiency refers to how much usable heat iscreated when a furnace is running. Conventional gas and oil furnaces have steady state efficiencies of roughly eighty percent. When the furnace is on, .twenty .percent ofthe heat that is generated goes up the chimney while the remaining eightypercent is transferred through a component called a heat exchanger and stays in the house. This isthe heat that travels through the ductwork and ends up coming out of the registers in each room. But even in the dead of winter, furnaces are not on all of the time. They cycle on as the thermostat calls for heat, and off when the thermostat is satisfied. During start-up and cool down, the furnace is not operating as efficiently.Also, when the furnace is not on, heat from inside the house escapes up the chimney flue the same way that heat would escape from an unused fireplace, if the damper was left open.


     Seasonal Efficiency

If you add these off-cycle losses to the steady state losses,you end up with the seasonal efficiency. Seasonal efficiencies for conventional gas and oil furnaces are about sixty to sixty-five percent.

Therefore, if you buy a thousand dollars worth of gas or oil over the course of a winter and you have a conventional furnace, only about $600 to $650 worth ofthe fuel will be used to heat your house and rest will be wasted.But what about mid and high efficiency furnaces? How efficient are they, and what makes them so efficient?


     Mid-efficiency Furnaces

Mid-efficiency furnaces have a seasonal efficiency of about eighty percent. They achieve this by cutting off-cycle losses. Mid- efficiency gas furnaces do not have a continuously running pilot. Itis shut off when the furnace is idle. Also, to prevent heat from escaping up the chimney when the furnace is not on, some manufacturers install a motorized damper in the exhaust flue to close it during idle periods. (Other manufacturers use other approaches to accomplish the same thing.)

*_High-efficiency Furnaces_*.

High efficiency furnaces employ similar techniques to reduce on-cycle losses, but go further to improve the steady state efficiency. Instead of having one heatexchanger, most have two or even three heat exchangers to extract more heat from the burning fuel. High efficiency systems can be 95 percent efficient.Because high efficiency systems are more complex, they cost more -typically$1,000 to $1,500 more than a conventional furnace. If you look at fuel costs only, the house that cost $1,000 to heat with a conventional furnace should cost only $650 or so to heat with a high efficiency system, yielding a savings of $350 or so a year. In a few years, the system would have paid for itself.

Some models of high efficiency furnaces, however, have had reliability problems and virtually all high efficiency systems require more costly maintenance which eats into the savings. Therefore, if you are considering a high efficiency system, on a retrofit basis, or

as an option on a new home, it is best to speak to a reliable heating contractor to discuss .the pros and cons of various models and the estimated increase in maintenance costs.

*Source : Dwelling View Engineers 2000*



On 15/10/2012 3:04 PM, Marc Pare wrote:
Sure thing, Crispin.

Crispin help me set up an interesting efficiency calculation the last few weeks, and the results may be of general interest to the list.

I have been trying to quantify the efficiency of the direct combustion of rice hull for heating applications. This should have some interest in stove design since sometimes stoves are used for such applications e.g. space heating.

The big question was how efficient is direct combustion of rice hull when it is powered by natural draft?

The tricky part of answering this question is that the amount of excess air (the amount of air pulled into the system that isn't used for combustion) has a great effect on the overall efficiency. It's too hard to measure the outlet velocity of chimney. Plus, you would need an accurate measurement of fuel consumption. Finally, it's not really feasible to measure the temperature of the products of combustion.

Luckily, you don't need any of these things. By leaning on the chemistry of the combustion reaction, you can calculate the overall "efficiency as a heater" with just a gas concentration reading (O2 or CO2) and an outlet temperature.

In other words, with just a combustion analyzer, you can see how much heat energy was available for your system. This is exactly the number you need to compare between options for energy sources.

The details of the calculation with this method are in the attached document -- BS845, a British boiler efficiency standard.

The results from direct combustion of rice hull are really fascinating. I attached a plot of the measured efficiency.

To get most of the energy out of the fuel in the traditional process, the combustion is done in phases. Phase 1 (5-10 minutes): A pile of raw hull is dumped on an inclined grate. It roars up into flame. Reaches > 1000 C Phase 2 (10-20 minutes): The rice husk turns to char. It's still red hot and still burning. This proceeds slowly and the temperature gradually decreases to < 500 C

The char is scraped off of the grate. It hasn't combusted all the way to ash.

What's interesting about this is that the efficiency of "Phase 2" drops considerably. This isn't the case with other fuels I have seen reports of. I plugged in some of the data from an assessment in India of charcoal kilns, and even with similar excess air values, the efficiency doesn't drop as low as rice hull.

What I think is responsible is that the particular chemical structure of rice hull (high ash, a silica skeleton) acts as a brake on the "char reactions" (I'm not sure of the technical term for this). You have to strike a balance between getting the energy out of the rice hull char and running at low efficiencies in your process.
I'm going to take a deeper look into this area some time soon.

Any others have thoughts to weigh in?

Marc Paré
B.S. Mechanical Engineering
Georgia Institute of Technology | Université de Technologie de Compiègne

my cv, etc. | http://notwandering.com


On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 11:19 PM, Crispin Pemberton-Pigott <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

    Dear Marc

    Would you like to describe some of your recent work on using rice
    hull to fire bricks in Vietnam?

    It is an interesting application and he methods you used are of
    general interest.

    Thanks
    Crispin stuck in Beijing


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