Thanks Ron for this forward. Very informative.
Dear Su Ba
This is the second (different) positive-response use I have heard for
undifferentiated stove char. As a water averaging soil ingredient it makes
perfect sense. It is why we always used puffed (popped) vermiculite.
The other application is for purification of water which can use the small
amounts produced by stoves. The char is treated with a nanosilver particle
solution and becomes biologically active (kills bacteria). Lloyd Helferty
connected me to a guy in the UK who knows how to do this.
Regards
Crispin
Su Ba and biochar list (and adding "stoves")
I am impressed. Thanks for the (very complete) report. Very nice to hear
there were no problems.
Could you describe a bit more technical details about your TLUDS? First
use when? Homemade? Presumably made of tin cans? Sizes? Any insulation?
Any preheating of any air? If controlling primary air - how? How many uses
before wearing/burning out? Etc.
Ron
_____
From: "Su Ba" <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 4:07:48 PM
Subject: Re: [biochar] Used Tractors ...biochar on homestead
Ron, I cannot give you the type of answer you are hoping for. I produce food,
not run experiments using various percentages of char, different formulations,
and using controls. In addition, I use a number of soil amendments including
char, mulch, compost, crushed bone, crushed coral, lava dust, and generally any
animal and green waste that comes available. None of my field is amended by
biochar alone. I also make and use foliar sprays when plants show need.
Having said that, I saw visible improvement in the areas that I started using
biochar. The plants were visibly more lush and withstood dry conditions better.
My own reasons for adding biochar is that it tends to even out the soil
moisture retention capabilities of the soil. The areas that became boggy now
drain better. The areas that moisture levels fluctuated wildly now tend to
flatten out somewhat, staying much more evenly moist. In my own situation, I
found that leaving the char chunky ( 1/4 to 1 inch) works just fine.
I had noticed that plants looked more lush when planted into ground that had a
fresh application of char. Thus it is now my routine to till in a light
application prior to each new planting.
The char I produce is made with a homemade TLUD stove adapted for cooking. I
created a series of them in a line so that I can move from one to the next in
order to cook for more than 40 minutes at a time when needed.
I use tree waste as fuel. Twigs and branches that I put through the shredder. I
mostly burn ohia, eucalyptus, and coconut husks. But any tree trimming are used
when available.
When I started using char, I use to quench the coals in water. Just recently I
changed to using using urine, and when that is not available, then fermented
fish waste. I cannot say yet if that has made a visible difference in the
crops. But it hasn't appeared to be hurting them.
Negatives? It takes time. I have to gather and shred the fuel. But a benefit
is that I do not have to
purchase much propane. Another negative is that my TLUD stoves burn out, so I
need to improve the design and materials. I do not grind the char, so I don't
have the dust problem that others talk about. I have not noticed any negative
effectives on the crops themselves.
I hope this information helps you.
...Su Ba
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