Forgive me if this is a duplicate message. Tony,
Thank you for the detailed and helpful response. >>GORES.SEA. Gores 'Self-expanding Archive' may have been compressed in Disc >>Doubler on a Mac. ATT00018.DAT - doesn't sound Mac like! Most of these types of programs use a table of data. The .DAT file might be left over from that. Could I impose on you, and send them to you via email. >The method depends on your globe being solid or, if hollow, perhaps filled >with polyester resin? I found a nice 8.5" solid plastic ball at Kmart for only $35. It weighs 10 pounds which will give the resulting piece a nice heft. By the way, it's called a bowling ball <grin>. >>Cast a 'female' half mould as a counter-die in 'stone-hard' plaster as used >>by dental/surgical technicians. That's a good idea. I've worked with casting resins before so I should be able to do that. >>Form a cylinder of thin aluminium sheet which is an exact fit around the >>globe. Before forming the cylinder print the artwork for a hemisphere at one >>end and cut the gores for one hemisphere. We now have something that >>resembles a king's crown with many points and a broad headband. I think I am stuck with .020" thick aluminum, as that may be the thinest material manufactured by the metalphoto people. I am debating between: making a rosette, which is just the opposite of your headband idea. All of the gores for a hemisphere are left connected at the pole and then pressed into a hemisphere by bringing the equator ends together. make each gore (or even half gores) separately and attaching them by hand to the ball. This is the way paper globes are made. it might give me more of a chance to correct (or is it create?) errors. >>I'll be happy to laserprint out my 'Gores for Globes' divided into 15° >>longitude and latitude grid full size for your 8" globe and 'snail' you a >>master for photocopying if this will help. Thank you. I would help in the prototyping phase. Let me measure the exact size of the ball first. What formula did you use for the latitude lines? >>I assume you know how to anneal aluminium to make it soft enough for forming. No I don't. I was wondering if I would be able to form it. Does annealling soften it a lot? Do have any helpful hints? Will it hurt the anodized coloring layer of the plates? I suppose I should test that too. I was wondering which parts will strech. Do you think the outer edges of the gore will remain fixed and the center strech? >>Looking back at what I've just written you'd have to want this globe a lot >>to go to so much trouble. I want to contribute to the art of dialing in the ways that I can. ++ron [TAPCIS: Message was sent to 1 address]
