J.D, thanks a lot for the response. 

The truck is indeed an F250, '85 with the 5.9L engine. I like your
assessment. The timing is the only one of the three causes that I could
see being related to the fuel. I will keep loggin more miles and see if
the problem keeps up. I think today I'll take a drive down to Reno to
make sure the engine is good and warm. I think I will wait until I have
developed a more reliable bioDiesel supply and then have the engine
tuned and timed around that fuel. I'm also skeptical of this batch of
fuel. We'll see how the smoke goes if I can get some commercial B100 to
rule out fuel impurity issues. The guy who made my fuel usually only
washes batches that are going into his girlfriend's new Jetta, so I
can't rule the fuel out. 

Thanks for the response,

Steve Murphy
Mapping Technician
Truckee Donner PUD
(530) 582-3943

>My thought is that blue smoke is usually caused by 1 of 3 things
>1) Oil being burnt, blowing by teh rings or valves
>2) Timing too far advanced or too far retarded
>3) Engine too cold
>I will assume its not #1.  You'd have noticed that on B10 or
petrodiesel also
>I lean towrad #2.  Biodiesel has a higher cetane rating than
>Timing is set according to cetane content.
>I would also think its not 3, not at least if your engine temp is in
>right range.  We'll assume its timing then, but thinking about cetane
>always gives me a headache.  I can't remember whether timing should be
>more retarded for higer cetane or more advanced.  I do know that many
>environmentally conscious individuals suggest retarding the engine's
>timing 2-3* to overcome BD's higher cetane, so I guess you're probably
>far advanced.  I would suggest getting the timing done on the fuel you
>want to use most of the time at a good diesel shop unless you have a
>timing tool yourself.  First lets find out what type of engine this is.

>You say it has dual tanks, so I'm assuming its a Ford F-series.  Is it
>powerstroke, a 6.9 or a 7.3 IDI?  With the IDI, you could retard teh
>timing a dime's thicknessor two and see if it makes a difference.  If
>a PSD, you'll need to let the pros handle it since its computer
>controlled.  On an IDI, you loosen the 3 injector pump mounting bolts
>rotate the pump itself.  Be advised, you won't get much movement out of
>it, just a hair, but a little makes a lot of difference.  BTW, you
>it toward the driver's side to retard the timing and toward the pass
>to advance it.  I think its timing.  Look into it.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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