I built libreswan 3.25 on Raspbian to be consistent with the "other"
IPSec box I'm trying to establish a peer-to-peer connection with. This
wasn't exactly painless. There appears to be a Red Hat bias to the build
instructions.

Anyway, after I installed libreswan 3.25 and ran ipsec.service, I then
ran:

# IPSEC VERIFY

and got: "Pluto listening for IKE on udp 500  [FAILED]".

BUT, if I run:

# LSOF -I UDP:500
 pluto   6139 root   15u  IPv4  52975      0t0  UDP 192.168.254.3:isakmp


or: 

# NETSTAT -TUNLP
 COMMAND  PID USER   FD   TYPE DEVICE SIZE/OFF NODE NAME
 pluto   6139 root   15u  IPv4  52975      0t0  UDP 192.168.254.3:isakmp


Both tell me that pluto is listening on port 500 using UDP.

Is "ipsec verify" lying to me?
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