On Fri, 3 Feb 2023, [email protected] wrote:

Double checked this, rp_filter is disabled on all interfaces and ipv4 
forwarding is enabled.  I use
"nftables" on both ends and have double checked to rules to ensure packets from 
both these sites have
bi-directional traffic enabled.  In fact to rule out nftables, I flushed all 
rules at both ends briefly
for a min and tried to reach each other, but there's no change in status.

Then you need to do network captures to see if the packets are in fact
making it to the machine or not. If they are, double check
/proc/net/xfrm_stat for non-zero entries indicating problems.

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