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I examined Fig 13 and agree it is a very compact tension device. Jim's
idea of using turnbuckles is good too. I guess, though, that I can't
think of a compact way to construct this to work in something like 11" x
17". My current prototype has worked the best of the ones I've made so
far - and may be my last!
I used the Fredix stretcher frames as I mentioned before, strengthened
with brass corner braces. This time, to control tension, I cut a thin
(1/2" stock) piece out of hardwood or poplar about 1" x 6". This fits
very nicely in the flat part of the Fredix frame. I bolted this to top
and bottom of the frame on what would be the underside of the frame -
straight through the frame. I used #8, 2 1/2" bolts with wing nuts. I
glued, with rubber cement, 4 pieces of fine sand paper, cut to fit this
little piece - two to the frame, and one on each of these pieces. This
will act as a friction surface to hold the warp and cloth. These two
bolted pieces act as clamps to hold the warp.
I found this holds the warp at an even tension and is easily adjustable.
The problem was when I moved the pack away from my body - the frame went
with it! So I tied a couple of loops to the bottom (cloth side) of the
frame and used my backstrap (2" nylon webbing with buckle) to keep the
frame in place. When I pull the cards toward me, the frame rests against
me (on the buckle). I think in an airplane seat, the confined space
would help to keep the frame in place even more.
Oh, I keep the extra warp and cloth wound around two dowels, backstrap
style, just hanging in the back of the frame where they are out of the
way.
This seems to work quite well. It is cheap, simple, easy to build (even
with out power tools), and is very light weight. I'm going to try this
for awhile and see how much I like it. Its amazing to me how much mental
energy I put in to make something so simple! :)
Craig in Denver
Send private reply to "Craig W. Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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