I'm no good at gauges either.
The silver wires that I tried for brocading were 0.28 mm and 0.42 mm in diameter.
the thicker wire had a lot of problems making the turn, and metal fatigue from bending the same sections of wire several times caused the wire to snap on occasion.
Copper is more malleable then silver, but thinner is always easier to bend.
I found myself pulling the weft tight before I even turned the cards to reduce the force needed to pull the wire, and to minimize the stress on the weft to reduce the number of times the wire snapped on me.
 
It sounds like a lovely project.  
What were you using for cards? 
Which type of wire are you using as your weft?
Are you planning on coating the band after its completed, or are you going to have the copper oxidize to green?
 
I'm certainly looking forward to the pictures.
 
rob schweitzer
 

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