Rod says: "Cheapskate travels weren't just in Mexico. Cavers found ways to
travel cheaply wherever we went back then."
What? Are you guys getting too old to have inexpensive fun?? The good old
days still aren't over for those willing to go far enough afield in search
of adventure!
I've seen my fortunes rise and fall, and for the last seven years or so
they have been on the rocks, but that hasn't stopped me from having fun by
going caving in far away places. Since my last major infusion of cash I've
been to Thailand twice with side trips to Laos, Cambodia, and Burma, and
several shorter trips to Central America. People say, "Well, it must be nice
to
be rich!" To which I reply that I am nearly destitute which even my
friends barely believe. The secret is to live a debt free life, use frequent
flyer miles derived from credit card use, and to be willing to travel by the
seat of your pants and to live like a local.
Two years ago I flew to Bangkok for a total of $61 in fees and taxes, then
took a perfectly acceptable room in Banglamphu (AKA Hippie heaven!) for six
big bux. Then I took a sleeper train all the way across the entire country
to Viengtiane Laos for thirteen dollars. A comfortable modern bus then
took me south to Khammouane province in the heart of the karst (right next to
where the world's largest cave was discovered in Vietnam). Unfortunately I
fell ill in Thakek, but if one must be sick, what a great place to do it
in! My spacious comfortable room was $5. The food was spectacularly good and
dinner averaged $2. After I recovered a bit I started renting motor
scooters for the inflated tourist price of $7/day and began to explore the
unbelievably beautiful karst. Ancient villages with huge caves and azure karst
resurgences were everywhere I looked. Eventually I pissed off the Commie
authorities by entering closed areas, and especially by sneaking around in the
jungle (actually monsoon forest) by myself, an activity that they considered
suspicious when undertaken by an American "of a certain age" (At 63 I
could have been the guy who bombed their village!). So they sent the army
after
me. It seemed wise to find a fresh venue for my ongoing adventures so I
fled the country back to Thailand where nobody cares what you do.
Thailand has a great National Park system similar to our own. The main
difference is in style of management. In America our national parks are full of
handrails and signs saying "Stay on the trail. Do this. Don't do that!",
and the rangers are glorified possum cops there to make sure you don't have
any fun. In Thailand it is assumed that you will play nicely with others so
everyone does. It is also assumed that you will not be so foolish as to
follow elephant trails so there are no signs saying not to. Delicious food
and ice cold beer are always available because it would never occur to the
authorities not to invite several of the local Grannies to set up thatched
roof concessions catering to your every whim. The whole idea is to have fun!
So I took busses to National Parks in all corners of the country. Entry
fees were generally around $3. Many of the rangers I met were so impressed by
my self sufficient camping style that they charged nothing for camping no
matter how long I stayed, after all, I was causing no impact! I mountain
biked, hiked, illegally followed elephant trails for many miles, canoed down
rivers, and visited countless beautiful waterfalls and caves.
When it was all said and done the two month trip didn't cost me much more
than it would have cost to stay home.
Now I'm still destitute but my Sweetie and I are going back this winter
for another two months, Yahoo! The tentative plan is to spend a month in
northern Laos following the Nam Ou from its confluence with the Mekong near
Louang Prabang all the way upstream to the remote region where China, Vietnam,
and Laos all come together. The Nam Ou is the largest trib to the Mekong in
Laos. There is only one bridge, the entire watershed is effectively
roadless, all traffic is along the river in small boats or on forest trails.
The
whole of northern Laos is mountainous and densely forested. Imagine West
Virginia hundreds of years ago, only inhabited by wild and woolly hill
tribes who dress in colorful costumes while carrying ancient muskets and
rusted
swords on their way to tend the opium patch in the bottom of the sinkhole.
Needless to say, there are caves everywhere!
That should wear our butts out, so a bit of R&R on the glorious beaches of
southern Thailand will be in order. Once our tans have recovered it will be
time to head up to Umphang along the Burmese frontier to continue my
explorations there. Umphang is considered to be the most remote place in
Thailand and is culturally part of Burma. Last time I was there I visited the
stunningly beautiful Ti Lor Su waterfall (google it), which, though heavily
visited is remote and surrounded by wilderness. The entire enormous waterfall
is made of travertine, think rimstone pools 500 feet high by 1500 feet
across.
While in Umphang I heard of a place downstream called La Ka To lake. The
only available description is "a blue lake surrounded by jungle and wild
animals". It is clearly visible on Google earth as an azure karst window in
the verdant wilderness. If you would like to creme your jeans here are the
coordinates: Lat 15.659265, Long 98.813834. The last time I tried to go there
the area was off limits due to fighting along the nearby Burmese border
(The brave Karen against the evil Burmese government).
Getting to La Ka To (if I can get there?) will be the only significantly
expensive part of the whole two month trip because I will have no choice but
to hire a licensed outfitter with rubber rafts. I purely hate that!
So I hope this serves as an inspiration to other impoverished old farts,
and as a rebuttal to those on this list who don't know me and have been
saying that I am not a "real" caver (Because I don't go to grotto meetings or
map nerd holes?). Get a life, it's easy to do and even cheap!
Sleazeweazel
