With bit of changes it could match Indian scenario.


Dry Wit from a Paki!

Flying Home
 Sarwar <http://www.chowk.com/writers/2600><http://www.chowk.com/writers/2600>
 Sukhera March 25, 2009 I have lived overseas, off and on, for thirty years
of my adult life. Despite the obvious advantages of civic order and
opportunities that the western hemisphere holds, nostalgic memories of one’s
childhood and adolescence make one yearn to relocate back to one’s
homeland.

I have just relocated back to Pakistan for the umpteenth time. Once again, I
wish I had been born somewhere else!

Some people never learn from experience, and I am one of them. Pakistan
appeared so exciting a place to me. It has spectacular bomb blasts, not to
mention the magic of corruption turning the impossible into the legally
possible. While road ingénues manage to worm ahead of traffic on congested
roads, the appearance of VVIP cavalcades turn a hustling, bustling city into
the frozen frame of a DVD. Top it off with lively protest marches, political
slogans blaring in unison, tires barbecuing on the road-side, grocery stores
closed to punish those with well-stocked refrigerators, and you have all the
ingredients of an action-packed film with a touch of black comedy. Who can
resist going to the sets to watch the filming of such a blockbuster? Once
again I succumbed to temptation and couldn’t resist returning.

Patriotism demands that we fly by PIA, also because no one else does. The
airline must be doing fantastic business since all its flights are always
fully booked regardless of a date or destination. The reasons routinely
given are: School holidays, Haj season, wedding season, summertime
vacations, while winter is traditionally a convenient time for expatriates
to visit families back home and, at times, even excuses like the excitement
generated by a new batch of senators and people rushing back to Pakistan to
watch the spectacular oath-taking ceremony. Reports about the airline losing
money appear as a clever ploy to wangle money out of the IMF and the naive
‘Friends of Pakistan’. It’s only when you board a plane that you find it
half empty.

I get to the airport way earlier than advised with the determination of
getting a window seat this time. Once again they’re all gone, reserved by
wizards who had not yet made it physically to the check-in counters. I
present the ticket putting on an act of being unwell, having bad back, point
to my hip joint that needs replacing, and even make up a story of knowing
President Zardari personally. I pleadingly look towards the station manager
who is busy on the phone assuring someone not to worry about any extra
baggage or a seat, but all to no avail.

I hold the boarding card sullenly that shows I might have to strap myself to
the tail of the plane and head for the assigned gate, on the way picking up
a book with an attractive cover and interesting title. I soon find out the
short reviews printed on the back of the cover were written by the Indian
author’s American friends with hopes to see the Taj Mahal. I sit and wait to
board while cursing myself for not knowing the right people at the right
places.

It is a long wait and finally the flight is announced. Passengers with
children are asked to come forward. Bunches of ten or more adults with every
child make up the front of the line. It is the first time I find out that it
takes ten adults to produce one child. Next in line in priority come the
sick and invalids. That’s when I catch sight of Butt Sahib riding a
wheelchair. I often saw him at the gym and envied his stamina on the
treadmill. He winks at me and gloomily hangs his head as if he is being
wheeled to an operation theatre for a serious surgery.

The two matronly-looking stewardesses at the entrance of the plane are
chatting about a movie they watched the night before, oblivious to the
passengers boarding the plane. People rushing around looking for assigned
seats remind me of kids playing treasure-hunt. Overhead compartments are
jammed with carry-on baggage that make one wonder why the designers never
thought of building the main cargo area overhead instead of down there in
the belly of the plane.

Female passengers dressed—not for a long-haul flight but for a wedding—are
amusing to watch. It's easy to tell first generation immigrants from the way
they are dressed up, with dark suits and ties, on such international
flights. They are the ones who will be asking you to fill out their custom
forms near the end of the journey. Casually dressed young men and women with
amicable mannerism are either going home after completing their studies or
to get married to their first cousins and return to jobs in the banking and
IT industries.

The continuous howling of rowdy children and untended infants assures me
that I have taken the right flight. Another common practice on PIA is people
swapping seats en mass. Business Class is usually reserved for airline
employees or ministers of the ruling political party. Sometime you see them
strolling back smugly as if they were inspecting the guard of honour. I have
read in the Book of Pakistani Etiquette never to smile or say ‘hello’, but
to stand up and salute them when they look at you condescendingly.

I love the dry and crispy surface of the piping hot food served on the
plane. You know instantly that it is no ordinary airline quality food but of
a rare vintage that has been stored for ages just for you. The aroma of
ethnic food mixed with the stench of sweat coming from fellow passengers
reminds me of Indo-Pak ghettos back in the country I had been so keen to
leave. Having a personable lady sitting next to me in the airplane is yet
another fantasy unrealized—quite like winning a lottery, getting
romantically involved with an Indian movie star or being a sportsman of
international recognition.

The haughty attitude displayed by the cabin crew is a clear sign of them
being government officers with discretionary powers and not mere employees
of some commercial organization. One doesn’t ask, but begs for a glass of
water. Someone with a brilliant sense of humour must have come up with the
‘great people to fly with’ tagline.


The entertainment provided on the scuffed and scratched tiny screen on the
back of a seat in front of me is an ingenious way of luring the audience
back to PTV. However, the plays are so ancient that you begin to wonder
whether you are riding in a recently acquired and much touted new model of
an airplane or Noah’s ark. As for the audio channels, one can take only so
much of qawali and Mehdi Hasan. Why, I have often walked out hungry from
dinner parties where ghazal singing goes on till the liquor runs out.

I pull myself out of the confines of a narrow seat that was originally
designed to carry an infant in a car. I carefully squeeze past the fellow
passengers in a deep slumber. I need to stretch my cramped legs and also to
join the social club that has formed near the toilets. Some people are
chatting cheerfully while others twist and turn to hold on till the occupant
of a toilet finally decides to come out. The toilet is a mess with water
everywhere and tissue paper littering the floor. The good Muslim who was
there before me had obviously been performing wuzoo. That makes me think why
an airline of an Islamic country like ours does not have a proper wuzoo
place and a small mosque in one area of the plane. Pilots are growing beards
in increasing numbers. They make announcements informing us of our location
on the map. Why can’t they also recite the azaan on the public address
system? In fact, constructing a symbolic minaret on the plane will reflect
our religious zeal and make Jihadis of all brands proud of the flying
mosque.

President Obama ought to consider the idea of Flying Mosques to appease and
neutralize the Taliban when strategizing his ‘War on Terror’. The drone
attacks not having succeeded, this just might.

As we touch down, the flight from Toronto to Lahore does not seem as long as
it did when we were somewhere in the sky. We begin to disembark and I see a
few people holding placards with names written on them. The named are
obviously from the privileged class and, thus, exempted from going through
customs and immigration. Yes, we have landed in Pakistan. Welcome home.

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