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 THE GOOD LIFE
Royal Diktat
How a monarch’s choice of *chhota* peg paved the way for legal distillation
of scotch whiskey





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  *Great Scot*
How do you calculate the age of a whisky? Experts say the age of a
particular blend can be ascertained by the age of the youngest single malt
that goes into it. Therefore, a 12-year-old whisky may have malts that are
more than 12 years old; indeed, some may even be twice that age. But the
youngest blend in the whisky would necessarily have to be aged no less than
12 years.
Some special edition whiskies do not mention the age on the label because
they often use a younger whisky for nuance. These whiskies are usually
specially blended and likely to be more exclusive than the whiskies that
feature the age on the bottle.
Ageing is not desirable beyond a certain number of years — at least, not in
the form of single malts. Not only do malts stop receiving any oak
characteristics from their wooden barrels, some of the derivatives may be
less than desirable for the final production. Still, some whiskies continue
to be aged for longer periods of time to be used in blends — I saw several
barrels that were sealed in the year of my birth, 1959. The angels must
have had a feast on their share from that. Typically, oak and bourbon casks
have a shelf life of a half century and are not used beyond that time frame.
Chivas Brothers’ most expensive whisky is from its Royal Salute series —
created to commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s coronation and aged 45 years — and
can set you back a princely sum of £200,000.
***
Wine is romantic, whisky is not — right? Wrong. As the malt that goes into
each blend ages in oak casks, it loses 2% every year to evaporation, a loss
that is adding up to the inventory over 12, 15, 18 or 21 years. One would
think the Scots would be mad about this loss. Wrong again. With a fair
degree of gallows humour, they forfeit that loss to a heavenly world,
describing it as angel’s share. It’s something to remember when you’re
swirling an 18-year-old Aberlour in a dram, watching the viscous spirit
cling to the glass before it eases its way down. Wine connoisseurs call
this legs; Scotch master blenders label this angel’s tears — because they
aren’t getting any more.
For an industry whose origins lay in illicit distillation, the Scotch
whisky tradition has come a long way to gaining legal status and becoming a
legitimate tax-paying business. An apocryphal tale has King George IV
asking for Glenlivet by name in 1822 on a visit to Edinburgh, knowing that
it was illegally produced and that his coffers were being robbed of taxes.
Of course, a bottle or two were hastily produced for the monarch.




For an industry whose origins lay in illicit distillation, the Scotch
tradition has come a long way



Nearly two centuries later, this tale still makes for a great fireside
story. Back then, distilleries tucked their stills away in forested
highland glens to make it difficult for excise inspectors to locate them.
So, it was a bold move on part of George Smith, when, in 1824, he sought a
licence to produce Glenlivet legally, close to where its illegal stills
once functioned. As it did back then, the spring water that goes into the
whisky comes from its original source — Josie’s Well, although who Josie
was has been lost in the mists of time. As for Smith, instead of being
complimented for his troubles, he invited the wrath of his peers and whisky
smugglers, necessitating the use of his flintlock on several occasions.
Thanks to him, Glenlivet continues to flow freely and legally in my — and a
million other — bars around the world. It’s the largest single malt brand
in the US — and the second-largest worldwide — due to the lifting of
prohibition in 1933, which coincided with the visit of Glenlivet’s Capt
Bill Smith Grant. In those days, miniature bottles of Glenlivet would be
served on Pullman trains plying the great Midwest. The two Georges have
reason to be proud of what they started.
At the Glenlivet distillery, this history is on my mind as I am allowed the
honour of filling my very own bottle of whisky, straight from a cask of
bourbon. It has a strength of 50.7%, just a whiff of which is enough to
ignite the senses. Which is also why you might need more than the two
regulation cubes of ice to tame its fiery spirit. As I fill in the details
on the label and then in a register so that Her Majesty’s exchequer isn’t
robbed of the tax on this  £70 privilege, I think of gifting it to my son —
hoping to share it with him soon.
To be continued...
------------------------------
*—The author is a Delhi-based writer and curator*

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