| Ten legendary eateries in Madras you simply cannot miss
It is Madras Day – the day a city celebrates its birthday. And what is a
birthday without a party and great food? So along with a friend and a foodie
Vasudevan, I decided to get all nostalgic and celebrate by heading to some of
the oldest eateries in the city that we personally like and recommend.I am not
too much of a lunch or a dinner person, but as a kid, it is the tiffin that has
always fascinated me. So I decided to stick to just places we would go for
breakfast or for a quick evening meal. While I have been to some of these
eateries since childhood – food, being a great favourite of both my parents, it
is Vasudevan who curated the list.We just went to two areas mainly – Mylapore
and Sowcarpet with a stop over at Triplicane. This is by no means an exhaustive
list and we hope to add to it as we go by.We also looked at eateries which are
fairly old and are favourites with almost every citizen of Madras. The only
street vendor we include is Amudha’s Bhajji stall in Mylapore. I dont think
there is a name for the stall, but Amudha is in demand. She has an entire set
up in Mylapore, near Kapaleeshwar temple on the road and she is flocked by
people, even before she prepares her dough. I met her during the Myalpore
Festival and I decided to feature her here.Amudha at her bhajji stallAll these
eateries mean more to us than just food. They have a story, a memory locked
inside them. I am sure that all of you resonate with the thought as well. So
let the emotions flow like the sambar as we go on this first food trail of
Madras or Chennai as we know it today as we go on this tiffin trail.Ratna Cafe,
TriplicaneOur first stop of the day is to Triplicane, an area that fascinates
me immensely for its heritage, its architecture, its melange of cultures and
the food. I want to stop at the Parthasarathy temple for a quick darshan and
the puliodharai, but we are a bit late. So we say a silent prayer and continue
to one of the oldest eateries in Triplicane, a landmark by itself – Ratna
Cafe.Started in 1948 by a man from Mathura, Triloknath Gupta, the family still
manage this very popular eatery.Idly at Ratna CafeIf there is one moment that
defines our breakfast in Ratna Cafe, it is this – the waiter brings a
contraption that looks like a saucepan and he pours the hot red sambar on the
fluffy white idlis, until they are soaked in it. We order a plate of idli and
vadai and top it with a plate of crispy golden brown ghee roast dosai, on the
recommendation of a friend, Giridhar on Twitter.The menu is packed in the
evenings with so many dishes to choose from. A board announces the same right
at the entrance.Rayar’s Mess, MylaporeOur next halt. One of the oldest and
humble abodes which is very popular with most citizens of Madras, the Rayar’s
Mess which has been around for more than 75 years in Mylapore. If there is one
dish that is the signature dish, it is the kara chutney. Every foodie,
including my father and his friends swear by it. Vasudevan specifically likes
the over fermented super soft idlis which literally melts in the
mouth.Breakfast at Rayar’s Mess is usually idli, vadai, pongal served with a
variety of chutneys, including the famous kara chutney, sambar and molagai
podi. Top it up with filter kaapi. This is what I call elaipotta tiffin
(tiffin served on a banana leaf).Rayar Mess TiffinThe eatery comes alive in the
evening with bondas, rava dosai, kal dosai, adai, vadai, a variety of sweets
and more dishes.We speak to Kumar, the third generation owner, whose
grandfather Srinivasa Rao started this. They were Kannadigas who had settled in
Tamil Nadu ages ago and it reflects in the food – the recipes are probably the
best of both worlds.Karpagambal Mess, MylaporeIt feels like you are entering a
temple. Right from the rangoli or the kolam on the steps to the large pictures
of Gods and Goddesses on the walls to the various podis (powder) and pickles
that is sold, everything about Karpagambal Mess is an ode to tradition.Keerai
Vadai at Karpagambal MessMy earliest memory to the place was when it I could
not say no to a sweet, Vasudevan recommends kasi halwa, but we finally have
wheat halwa. There is also rich badam halwa for those who want to binge
further. We stop right here as we have another six more eateries to
visit.Mami’s Mess, MylaporeNext to Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan in Mylapore is
another famous eatery, popular with old timers and the young alike Mami’s Mess.
Vasudevan and another friend on twitter – Degreekaapi recommends that we head
there to taste thavala vada. But we are unlucky. However our appetite is
satiated with the bhajjis and bondas around. Customers flock to buy
Kozhukattai, a sweet dumpling made with rice flour filled with wheat and
coconut. Although it was renovated recently it is still more than 50 years
old.Bondas at Maami MessThe dish according to us, that you must eat here is
keerai vadai. Vasudevan is also tempted by the vazhai poo adai served with
avial, which is absolutely delicious.Vasantha Mami apparently came from a small
little village called Alvarkurichi in Tirunelveli which is very close to our
ancestral village and she started this eatery in Mylapore. Her sons take care
of it now.Jannal Bhajji Kadai, Mylapore
Bhajji Kadai was not openIn a little lane around the
Kapaleeshwar temple is a small green grilled window on the wall that serves
sinfully delicious bhajjis. You stand here and eat to your heart’s fill, be it
bhajjis or upma or idlis. Sadly they were shut as they had a wedding in the
family. Vasudevan says the Vazhakkai Bhajji is extremely good and my parents
are a bit disappointed that I cannot not buy some bhajjis for home, but then,
there is always another time.Kalathi Stall, MylaporeAll in the same vicinity,
it is very easy to miss this little news mart, a small shop hidden by trees.
The headlines here scream of Rajinikanth and Sachin Tendulkar but what it does
not scream about is the recipe of the rose milk which Mani and his family has
safely guarded for over 80 years and sells it here fresh. I gulp glasses while
Vasudevan buys the rose essence . A couple of women get off their two wheeler
to drink panner soda, another speciality. Mani says celebrities have flocked to
his shop.Rosemilk at Kalathi StallNovelty Tea House, Mint StreetIt is almost
dark when we reach Mint Street and walking down the mini streets of Broadway
and Parrys Corner is a delight in itself. As we navigate pedestrians, cows,
cycle rickshaws, autos, tempos and cars, we find ourselves wondering if we are
in Old Delhi or even Ahmedabad. Sowcarpet is one of the oldest locales in
Chennai and my father who used to work here knows almost every eatery in the
lanes.Pudhina Dosa at NoveltyWe head to Novelty Tea House at the recommendation
of my uncle, Kannan and a mutual friend of Vasudevan and mine on Facebook –
Sreemathy Mohan. The pudhina onion dosai is what she recommended and that is
what we order. I definitely recommend it as well along with the pav
bhajji.Novelty Tea House started as a tea stall in the late 50s by Chandrakant
Moolchand Shah and it is now managed by the third generation. They do have
branches everywhere, but do not miss the oldest eatery in Mint Street. The
atmosphere is an experience in itself.Mehta’s Vada Pav, Mint StreetThere is a
branch near my house near Purasaiwalkam but Vasudevan tells me that the the
original should not be missed. So in a little stall, barely enough to house a
man and his delicacies, is one of the oldest stalls here which sells vada pav
and mirchi bhajji. Bhavin Mehta who has been here for more than 50 years
proudly says that his is the best. Vasudevan agrees . And you thought, Madras
is all about idli and dosai.Kachoris at MehtasKakada Ramprasad, Mint StreetI
know of them since I was a kid as my father used to bring sweets and savouries
home. Yet, when I land there today I am surprised to find a huge building,
selling everything from jalebis to fafdas, chaats to badam milk. We decide to
try out two of their most famous specialities – the aalu tikki chaat and the
hot hot jalebis. I am a loss for words. You just have to eat it, sorry, devour
it to experience it.Aloo Tikki at Kakada RamprasadAnmol Lassi, Mint StreetThey
say eat, drink and be merry. We are eating and we are merry, but the drink is
missing. So next door to Kakada Ramprasad, is the a former wrestler who speaks
flawless Tamil with a great sense of humour, who came to Chennai from Patiala
27 years ago. The board says “Anmol Mohit Patiala, specialist in Kesar Lassi.”
He also serves masala butter milk . He says he stands here everyday from
morning till night, except on Sundays. ” My wife will divorce me otherwise, ”
he says with a laugh as we gulp down the cold icy lassi down our throats.
Kesar LassiAnd finally the
rains tumble down as we want to explore more eateries, but we run for cover and
walk down the lanes to digest the entire spread from morning. I probably have
to starve for the next couple of days and run miles to burn the calories, but
then my love affair with Madras just got deeper. Bon appetite and enjoy the
many flavours of the city. |
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