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Article Title:
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Alberta Hiking: The Bear Necessities Revealed

Article Description:
====================

That's what I learned when I traveled with ex-bear-hunting
guide, Shane Hansen, now a tourism operator/guide and co-owner of
Iron River Ranch. Having guided for bears in Alberta's Lakeland
region for years, Hansen knows exactly when and where in the
spring that the various species of fish will be spawning. And
that's where I am. Lurking. Safely. Learning the mysteries,
myths and magic behind these enigmatic creatures.


Additional Article Information:
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1675 Words; formatted to 65 Characters per Line
Distribution Date and Time: 2006-12-12 11:24:00

Written By:     Travel Alberta
Copyright:      2006, All Rights Reserved
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Alberta Hiking: The Bear Necessities Revealed
Copyright (c) 2006 Travel Alberta, All Rights Reserved
Written by: Travel Alberta
http://www.travelalberta.com




This story begins with a conundrum: I have spent most of my life
avoiding them, often during Alberta hiking.

I have banged dents in my pot sets, having smashed them together
for eight hours straight in order to keep them at bay. I have
cooked miles from my tent for the same reason that I have gone
hoarse belting out every Joni Mitchell song I know at
ear-piercing decibels. I have done all this. And more.

Much more.

So, it seemed a bit perverse to be seeking them. In fact,
searching for them. Paying to see them.

Bears that is.

Black bears, ursus americanus. Those black – actually blue,
brown, even blonde – beasts that can easily grow to be 500-lb.
behemoths, are not, I repeat, NOT a conundrum at all. That's
what I learned when I traveled with ex-bear-hunting guide, Shane
Hansen, now a tourism operator/guide and co-owner of Iron River
Ranch. Having guided for bears in Alberta's Lakeland region for
years, Hansen knows exactly when and where in the spring that the
various species of fish will be spawning. And that's where I am.
Lurking. Safely. Learning the mysteries, myths and magic behind
these enigmatic creatures.

Perched 16 ft. above ground on a metal platform, I find myself
eye to eye with a nervous yearling, who's cuddling the trunk of
a pine tree about 15 ft. across from me. Eyeing the canopy which
covers the platform upon which we sit, I hear the scrape of his
claws as he slides down the trunk to meet his sibling on another
branch. The two black fluff balls cuff each other, rub snouts,
lose their footing and then free fall to another limb where their
pratfalls begin all over again.

Feeling like Mowgli in The Jungle Book we watch Baloo-like antics
for hours. Mom turns up to give them a fishing lesson. A male
(boar in bear parlance I am told) lumbers through the area,
sending the cubs rocketing to the upper branches where they
quiver in fright, so much so the entire tree shakes. All
afternoon, they zoom up and down the Jack Pines, skittishly,
seeking new frontiers, but only momentarily, before they return
to wait for mom. All the while avoiding dad. And us? We are but
an audience with a different smell – one they can't get any
closer to for the slippery metal ladder eludes them as does the
platform, for it's just a smidgen beyond what they can jump. I
am reminded that this region offers a remarkable experience
that's different than the Alberta hiking you can experience
elsewhere in the province.

Swiveling around in my treetop chair, Hansen regales us with bear
lore...how the Lakeland region has the highest concentration of
black bears in Alberta (two bears per sq. km), how breeding
occurs in the spring, why Alberta is home to about 40,000 black
bears, that a normal litter size is two, how delayed implantation
works – and so on.

So mesmerizing are Hansen's stories, delivered on a live
backdrop of nature, that I didn't notice the skies darkening and
the wind scudding across the lake. It was when the tall pines
began creaking and a raven started cawing that I noticed my cozy
little world of treetops had become soggy, even spooky. Then the
cubs started mewling and that's when I knew the setting had
become equal parts The Lost World and The Jungle Book. What would
happen if our exit strategy through the dense woods failed?
Somehow I didn't think I'd be waltzing with Baloo or riding the
sleek black back of Bagheera. This was no novel . . . in fact
this little adventure smacked of becoming a white-knuckle
thriller. "But that's what adventure travel is, isn't it –
remember you don't have to go to Africa to get a thrill,"
grinned Hansen as he coaxed us down the ladder and through the
forest to the awaiting boat.

So, anybody who's ever told you that you'd have to force the
action a bit to get your heart thudding in the Lakeland region is
wrong. Iron River Ranch's popular bear watching packages must be
pre booked for 2007 well in advance as the 2006 tours are sold
out. Iron River Ranch also offers Lakeland Safari Options. If you
choose to visit the Lakeland region this year, there is much to
do and discover, including excellent birding (just check the Iron
River Ranch website under tour details for more information),
fishing, other wildlife adventures and, as you'll read below,
plenty of Alberta culture to explore, along with Alberta hiking.

Lakeland's other unique – and tamer – charms, run all
summer-long. You could visit the area and scope it out, so to
speak, so that you become familiar with the region if you want to
book ahead and return one day for the bear tour. This area is
most often accessed by first visiting Alberta's international
gateway city to the North, Edmonton. 

One of the most knowledgeable guides in this area that works
closely with Hansen and other highly specialized operators is
Cameron Malcolm, owner of Out an' About Tours. Travel with Out
an' About and you can visit a buffalo jump, hike a pristine
trail, and even follow a voyageur's route. You can experience
the coming together of cultures in the fur trade of the 18th
century along the North Saskatchewan River with a tour of Fort
George and Buckingham House. This is an historic site where the
North West Company and Hudson's Bay posts were built in 1792.
Travel by jet boat to explore Smudge Island, a favorite campsite
of the early voyager. This package includes a tour of heritage
churches in Kalyna Country and a visit to Elk Island National
Park to view bison and elk.


Fort George and Buckingham House

If you're partial to small museums with a tight focus you'll
love Fort George and Buckingham House, 13 km southeast of Elk
Point. On the forested cliffs above the North Saskatchewan River,
you'll discover the remarkable feats of explorers Peter Fiddler
and David Thompson cleanly displayed in this bright 13-year-old
facility. Give the spot 45 minutes of your time and you'll leave
a whole lot wiser to the ways of the North West Company and the
Hudson's Bay Company. Excellent maps display the companies'
push west and a short interpretive trail leads you by the two
original competing posts, erected 400 yards apart. Both were
abandoned in 1800 so only cellar depressions, rock piles and the
ruins of a palisade wall remain but the interpretive centre does
well to connect the dots plus they offer all sorts of hands-on
activities and some excellent videos that focus on the critical
role the Metis women played.


Plamondon Mud Bog

This Aug. 19-20 event gives a whole new meaning to getting "down
and dirty." Massive mud pits lure dozens of gonzo competitors to
rev up their tractors, jeeps and monster trucks all in the
pursuit of...we're not sure! If you don't fancy the muck, seek
refuge in the beer gardens or the children's festival. Plamondon
is a 20-minute drive west of Lac La Biche.


Treasure Island

Kids can change moods faster than dot-commies change jobs. So
what kind of vacation is sure to suit all of their multifarious
tempers? Those under 12 will love a visit to "Treasure Island."
Another brainchild of Shane Hansen (owner of Iron River Ranch and
the bear watching tours) this one-day tour has family stamped all
over it. Armed with identification books, magnifying glasses,
compasses, maps and a hunger for treasure, groups of four to six
set off aboard a jet boat bound for this forested island. Using
plant species as map guides this day trip will leave all members
a whole lot richer at the end of their finds! Another picnic
favourite, without the "treasure" is a jaunt out to Smudge
Island, once a popular spot of the voyageurs who paddled these
very waters of the North Saskatchewan River.


Lac La Biche Mission

I slide on to the seat of a well-worn desk and stare up at a
Daughter of Jesus nun. The brown-paper wrapped textbook I am
given is in French as are the prayers elegantly written on an old
slate board at the head of the class. Here I am, in the newly
restored convent, which operated from 1856 to 1963, and is
considered the second oldest building in the province. From the
classroom I head across the hallway to a furnished dormitory
where 30 to 40 Metis and Francophone children would have slept at
one time. Other rooms are full of religious paraphernalia and
odds and sods from ironing boards to carpeted foot warmers,
shoehorns and old Singer sewing machines. The tiny 10-pew chapel
is still intact with its candle chandelier, cruets, communion
bowls, chalices, ciboriums and so on. Do spend time in the
mission's interpretive centre, full of excellent archival shots
and anecdotes of the trials these explorers and missionaries
faced in their four-month epic canoe expeditions from Quebec to
Lac La Biche. From their 45 kilo packs they hoofed over
mosquito-riddled boggy portages to the 18-hour-a-day paddles –
the fact anyone ever made it to this outpost is remarkable.


Get the Full Picture

Whether it's bear watching, a three-day canoe trip out of Lac La
Biche, tours of Alberta's French communities, Alberta hiking or
Kalyna country that draws you to this more remote section of the
province – a given is that you will leave surprised. So be as
ready as you can for the unexpected...the mission in the middle
of nowhere, more bird sitings than the rest of the province
combined, superb jet boating and fishing, affordable cabin and
farmhouse rentals, boreal forests, the Canadian Shield, powwows
galore. And when the day's done, do what I did and kick up your
boots on the porch chair at Iron River Ranch and watch the sun
set over their burbling creek and breathe in the tumble of
velvety hills.

Is this how a creature of the North could be born?




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Copyright (c) 2006 Travel Alberta, All Rights Reserved

Travel Alberta (http://www.travelalberta.com) is the destination 
marketing organization for the Province of Alberta. Guided by the 
Strategic Tourism Marketing Council, Travel Alberta is the steward 
for the effective delivery of tourism marketing programs. For 
information about our organization, please visit our Travel 
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